Suggest Me A Car Under $4K


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Well I don't know about the $600 oil change part, but people say to repair Audi's is very expensive.

On craigslist I found a 2001 A4 Turbo for $3800. I am wondering why are Audi's going for that low with low mileage (92,000 miles). Is it because that it's too expensive to fix and they are just trying to get rid of it or what.

I don't think the price/value of the car has anything to do with the cost of repairs. If that were the case, used Ferrari's would be dirt cheap. Not to mention the RX-7 or RX-8 should be pretty much free to give away seeing as they are the least reliable cars ever made in the last 20 years from Mazda.

A 2001 A4 1.8T for $3800 is definitely not a bad price. That's awesome, good find. It makes perfect sense though, if you think about it. The 2001 A4 uses the B5 chassis. Since than, Audi has updated their "generations" 3 times, with the B6, B7's and now B8's. 2001 was 9 years ago, that's a very long time ago for Audi :)

Nissan 300zx? Every Z car is great, but holy crap that VG30DETT in the Z32 fits tightly in the engine bay.. Maintenance will not be cheap unless you do it by yourself.

I will echo you and add that finding a Z, any Z, in anything other than pitiful condition for under 4k is going to be impossible. They have become desirable cars in the collector, grassroots racing, and import tuner communities at the same time, one of the few cars to do so.

The OP has already expressed his desire for a car in good shape so any Z for under 4k is going to be out. Additionally he has expressed a desire to seat more than four. If you want to put more than four in a Z they had better be circus clowns or you need a chainsaw and a tarp.

Well I have been researching the Audi's more after what you have said Xeon and I found out that the A4 is a Jetta varient. What is the difference between the two that sets them apart? Are you an owner of an Audi?

What about a 2001 Nissan Maxima? I have read that they have engine problems and transmission problems. Any owners know about this?

I will echo you and add that finding a Z, any Z, in anything other than pitiful condition for under 4k is going to be impossible. They have become desirable cars in the collector, grassroots racing, and import tuner communities at the same time, one of the few cars to do so.

The OP has already expressed his desire for a car in good shape so any Z for under 4k is going to be out. Additionally he has expressed a desire to seat more than four. If you want to put more than four in a Z they had better be circus clowns or you need a chainsaw and a tarp.

:laugh:

Well I have been researching the Audi's more after what you have said Xeon and I found out that the A4 is a Jetta varient. What is the difference between the two that sets them apart? Are you an owner of an Audi?

What about a 2001 Nissan Maxima? I have read that they have engine problems and transmission problems. Any owners know about this?

:laugh:

Hey buddy!

Audi's and Volkswagen's share only some drivetrains, not so much chassis. There are very few differences between the 1.8T found in an Audi, and a 1.8T found in a Volkswagen. Most of the time, Audi motors have slightly more efficient valvetrains and fuel injection (bigger, more efficient fuel injectors, fuel pumps etc.). On another note, Audi transmissions are different (and much better than their Volkswagen counter parts).

Having a different chassis's, there are also other improvements found in Audi's such as obviously more luxurious interiors that include Bose premium sound systems, leather seats, nicer looking clusters. Overall, they are much more "expensive" on the inside. Another upgrade to Audi over Volkswagen 1.8T models, is the turbocharger its self as well as the engine management system. The turbo found on Audi 1.8T's are BorgWarner K03-S (or K03-Sport), while the turbo on the VW 1.8 (found in the Jetta, GTI), is a regular BorgWarner K03. Not something that is really important, but it matters to some people.

In response to your question, I do own an Audi. I've owned a 2001 Audi S4 Avant with an Audi RS4 "widebody" conversion for a few years and I couldn't be happier with the car :)

This is coming from a previous Porsche 911 owner :)

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Hey buddy!

Audi's and Volkswagen's share only some drivetrains, not so much chassis. There are very few differences between the 1.8T found in an Audi, and a 1.8T found in a Volkswagen. Most of the time, Audi motors have slightly more efficient valvetrains and fuel injection (bigger, more efficient fuel injectors, fuel pumps etc.). On another note, Audi transmissions are different (and much better than their Volkswagen counter parts).

Having a different chassis's, there are also other improvements found in Audi's such as obviously more luxurious interiors that include Bose premium sound systems, leather seats, nicer looking clusters. Overall, they are much more "expensive" on the inside. Another upgrade to Audi over Volkswagen 1.8T models, is the turbocharger its self as well as the engine management system. The turbo found on Audi 1.8T's are BorgWarner K03-S (or K03-Sport), while the turbo on the VW 1.8 (found in the Jetta, GTI), is a regular BorgWarner K03. Not something that is really important, but it matters to some people.

In response to your question, I do own an Audi. I've owned a 2001 Audi S4 Avant with an Audi RS4 "widebody" conversion for a few years and I couldn't be happier with the car :)

This is coming from a previous Porsche 911 owner :)

I read this:

actually Audi stopped using VW platforms in 2001 for the A4 the A6 and A8 were already on Audi derived platforms. they use different V6 engine's if you get a 4 cylinder turbo than engine parts would be the same cost although labor may be slightly more. the suspension systems are different and you will pay more for Audi suspension components than VW. Audis do have better reliability than VW as many of the parts are upgraded for the extra weight and performance that the Audi has. if you buy one that is 200 or older than it would be pretty similar to a passat (which is also more reliable than a jetta)

Is it true?

Also looking at this: http://repairpal.com/audi-a4_quattro-2001/common_problems , it's not helping with a decision to buy an Audi. :( I don't really have a lot of money to sink into repairs and if these things fail it would be too expensive to fix. :/

I love your Audi. The color is perfect. :p Any problems with yours?

I read this:

Is it true?

Also looking at this: http://repairpal.com/audi-a4_quattro-2001/common_problems , it's not helping with a decision to buy an Audi. :( I don't really have a lot of money to sink into repairs and if these things fail it would be too expensive to fix. :/

I love your Audi. The color is perfect. :p Any problems with yours?

TBH, if you're okay with something in the 97-99 range, look at a Mk3 Jetta... I'm looking for a Wolfsburg or a VR6 swapped one myself, but they're damn reliable... They are boxy, but I like the box look and I will NEVER buy a coupe again, I want four doors. Take a look, you might like them. The newest (late 99+ up till the new City Jettas + full Jettas) are nice as well, but reported electrical issues in some cases and I prefer the rock solidness of the old ones... Take a look, people were selling them here from 2500-5000.

TBH, if you're okay with something in the 97-99 range, look at a Mk3 Jetta... I'm looking for a Wolfsburg or a VR6 swapped one myself, but they're damn reliable... They are boxy, but I like the box look and I will NEVER buy a coupe again, I want four doors. Take a look, you might like them. The newest (late 99+ up till the new City Jettas + full Jettas) are nice as well, but reported electrical issues in some cases and I prefer the rock solidness of the old ones... Take a look, people were selling them here from 2500-5000.

VR6's are infamous for chain tensioner noises after 80k miles, which leads to replacement. It's an expensive fix. I love VR6's for other reasons than everyday reliability :)

OP: I looked at the list you showed me of common problems and yes, those are all realistic problems. They are all common problems of all/most modern fuel injected cars. There isn't really any expensive on that list except the torque converter replacement. Basically get a 5 speed manual and the problem will never haunt you :) The rest of the problems are pretty much all maintenance related.

A little off topic, but nice car, Xeon! As I was reading your post and came across your car description as "widebody" I had visions of some really overblown and overdone looking mod, but that is nice, clean and almost subtle. It looks like it could have come from the factory like that. I really like the lines on your car even the roof rack contributes.

A little off topic, but nice car, Xeon! As I was reading your post and came across your car description as "widebody" I had visions of some really overblown and overdone looking mod, but that is nice, clean and almost subtle. It looks like it could have come from the factory like that. I really like the lines on your car even the roof rack contributes.

Thanks man! :D

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for the long time no post, but I may have found a car that I want to get. I found a 2000 Audi A6 Sedan 2.8L V6 with 124,000 miles on it and I want to get your opinions on it. Is it a good reliable car? I have been reading stuff on the internet that it would be a lot of $$ to get it fixed and it has problems a lot and I don't have a lot of money to put into repairs EVERY month. :/

if you don't have money to put into possible repairs, buy a cheap car where you can afford the repairs with and do most things yourself. IE..look at the plugs, when it is time to do a tune up can you? Look at the transmission pan, can you get to each nut holding it in? Brakes, are they all disk or are they drum in the rear, IMO it is easier to replace disks than drums, no springs to worry about, fkers like to pop everywhere.

I think you should learn to do some things on your own. It is a small investment in tools and can save you hundreds, but some jobs aren't worth the agony (ie. a crank sensor for a 2.5S Altima...sure it is a 30-60 dollar part, to have someone put it in with cost of part is 250, to put it in yourself requires you to be able to dislocate your arm in a few places with convential tools....just let someone else do it for 250, it just isn't worth the pain and suffering you have to go through to put it in that blind spot (can't see where you have to put it in, can only feel...it is deep in a cavity by the rear motor mount). give it to someone who deals with that crap every day, he knows tricks that you don't know to get things in like that.)

You may want to seriously consider american, parts are usually cheaper than german. Jap parts are usually cheaper than german too, but not as cheap as american in most cases. (example, american cars (for the most part) run fine on the cheapest plugs you can get your hands on. jap and german cars have higher compression which require a special plug to run right (the will run on the cheapys but I used to get a lot of complaints about them not running right with the cheapy autolite plugs and often returned for the better plugs, this was in the 1999-2001 circa when I worked behind a parts counter)...average cost of a cheapy autolite plug 1.50, average cost of a foreign plug 8..so it would be $6 for a 4cyl with cheapy plugs and $32 for a 4cyl for foreign plugs, while it isn't a lot of money it is to someone who doesn't have any and is worried about spending a lot for repairs, and that is just 1 part of the tune up...airfilter, pcv valve, possible fuel filter, possible belt (average cost of a tune up back then was about 100, don't know what a tuneup is now as you don't need some parts like a cap and a rotor and some cars have a non servicable fuel filter, you may or may not have to replace the belt or want to replace the belt as it may be too difficult to replace (all depends how much room the engineers gave you to put your hand down there). I like rwd cars, so much easier to do belts and plugs, except for an expedition where they hide the rear plugs under the cowl, fkers).

Two of mty friends had A4's

Mate 1. had transmission go on him. Was a manual. $3000 to repair. Audi dont provide individual parts apparently.

Mate 2. Had auto go on his. replaced transmission at $3200 and it lasted a year. Now its gone again. He is selling the car. He got the car for $11000 with 80000kms, ended up with transmission and other repairs to be $18000

I wouldnt buy an audi.

Two of mty friends had A4's

Mate 1. had transmission go on him. Was a manual. $3000 to repair. Audi dont provide individual parts apparently.

If this is true, then that is why the good Lord created the aftermarket, scrapyards and the internet. Thy Lord and his faithful prophet of Henry Ford and his system of standardized parts has provided for thee. Halle-fricken-lujah

I saw a 2002 Nissan Altima 2.5S today and I got it to a very reasonable price, but that's because the Transmission is leaking fluid from the front seal. The guy said it would cost about $550 to fix it. Do you think that its still a good car to buy?

how many miles? what seal?

here is what has gone in mine at 180,000

o2 sensors at 100,000

crank sensor at 180,000

flex pipe at 160,000 (well not gone but I don't think it is holding pressure)

other than that typical oil changes, brakes, tune up, trans fluid, air filter, and tires.

how many miles? what seal?

here is what has gone in mine at 180,000

o2 sensors at 100,000

crank sensor at 180,000

flex pipe at 160,000 (well not gone but I don't think it is holding pressure)

other than that typical oil changes, brakes, tune up, trans fluid, air filter, and tires.

It has 92,000 miles and he said it is the front main seal, where the torque converter goes in.

You don't buy an eight plus year old car to service it at the official dealership. It doesn't make sense. Of course, any kind of work done there will seem expensive compared to what the car cost you. So you take it to a no-name brand garage :) All you gotta do is find a good private mechanic specializing in a particular brand.

p.s. it's pretty easy to ruin any car, even the most reliable, if you don't take care of it. Give me a Bentley and I'll make its tranny bleed beyond repair in a week! By the way, do you know Bentley shares its transmission model with Audi A8? (Bentley belongs to VW) In fact, all German car manufacturers outsource their transmissions to another German company, called ZF. So, Audi's transmission is no better or worse than the one found in a Benz or a bimmer. It's all about how an individual car was maintained.

could be a recall. I would get it fixed if it is leaking, I am sure if you jack it up you will see. but I think I would go for it. get a car fax, it won't show everything but it will show major things.

It's not a recall. :/ Do you think that it is worth it though? Under $4K I am buying it.

You don't buy an eight plus year old car to service it at the official dealership. It doesn't make sense. Of course, any kind of work done there will seem expensive compared to what the car cost you. So you take it to a no-name brand garage :) All you gotta do is find a good private mechanic specializing in a particular brand.

p.s. it's pretty easy to ruin any car, even the most reliable, if you don't take care of it. Give me a Bentley and I'll make its tranny bleed beyond repair in a week! By the way, do you know Bentley has the same model of transmission as found in Audi A8? (Bentley belongs to VW) In fact, all German car manufacturers outsource their transmissions to another German company, called ZF. So, Audi's transmission is no better or worse than the one found in a Benz or a bimmer. It's all about how an individual car was maintained.

I am not going to get it serviced at a dealership, they are charging me $1100 to get the problem fixed, but the guy said his mechanic can fix it for $550. Do you think that I will have problems with the transmission latter on, after I get it fixed?

I wouldn't buy a car with a leaking transmission. If it leaks, it means something had already happened to it and the problem wasn't fixed properly or it's just dying due to corrosion or damage, or something else.

In any case, you don't know how long the previous owner drove the car for with possibly next to no oil in the transmission.

2003 Escort ZX2.

2 door coupe, strong 130HPi4 Zetec, non-interference. if you get a 5spd great pick-up and if you want you can get great handling out of it for cheap, just springs, struts and swaybar. I get about 42MPG on the HW with mine. I have an intake and custom tune on it, few Ford Racing suspension pieces.

I don't drive it much anymore but I love having a small little go cart handling car that gets great gas for when I need to go to NYC.

A 98 or 99 Honda Passort/Izuzu Rodeo will do you quite nicely. I have owned one for 8 years, had very little issue with it. Bought it at 110K now at 164K. Every problem is well documented on automativeforums.com and if it you happen to have any questions there are very informed people on that board to help you. Not to mention DO IT yourself guides with pictures to do the simple repairs, like a dirty egr valve etc. Great Vehicle HIGHLY recommended.

Technically any year of the passport/rodeo is a good year. There all documented well. I paid 7700 for my EX Honda Passport after taxes, today its not worth much more then 4000. However i've done plenty of modifications to it.

Just change the oil on this beast and your set! Mines fully loaded, leather, sunroof, heated mirrors etc.

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    • AdGuard Family lifetime deal now only $14.97 by Steven Parker Today's highlighted Neowin Deal comes via our Apps + Software section, where you can get a lifetime subscription and save 91% on a lifetime AdGuard Family Plan. AdGuard is a unique program that has all the necessary features for what they claim to be "the best web experience." The software combines the an advanced ad blocker, a privacy protection module, and a parental control tool—all working in one app. This software deals with annoying ads, hides your data from a multitude of trackers, protects you from malware attacks, and even lets you restrict your kids from accessing inappropriate content. Install AdGuard and see the internet as it was supposed to be: clean and safe. Get rid of annoying banners, pop-ups & video ads once and for all Hide your data from the multitude of trackers & activity analyzers that swarm the web Avoid fraudulent and phishing website and malware attacks Protect your kids online by restricting them from accessing inappropriate & adult content Good to know Family Plan Length of access: lifetime This plan is only available to new users Redemption deadline: redeem your code within 30 days of purchase Max number of devices: 9 Access options: desktop & mobile Software version: AdGuard Family Updates included A lifetime subscription of AdGuard Family Plan normally costs $169.99, but this deal can be yours for just $14.97, that's a saving of $157.02. For full terms, specifications, and license info please click the link below. Get this AdGuard Family lifetime deal for just $14.97 (was $169.99) Although priced in U.S. dollars, this deal is available for digital purchase worldwide. As an online publication, Neowin too relies on ads for operating costs and, if you use an ad blocker, we'd appreciate being whitelisted. In addition, we have an ad-free subscription for $28 a year, which is another way to show support! Support queries If you have queries or need support for any of the Neowin Deals, please use the contact form here. Neowin Deals are managed and sold by StackCommerce who represent Neowin on an affiliate basis. Why we post these deals We post these because we earn commission on each sale so as not to rely solely on advertising, which many of our readers block. It all helps toward paying staff reporters, servers and hosting costs. So for those that keep moaning and complaining, be thankful we're still online for you to even do that. Other ways to support Neowin Whitelist Neowin by not blocking our ads Create a free member account to see fewer ads Make a donation to support our day to day running costs Subscribe to Neowin - for $14 a year, or $28 a year for an ad-free experience Disclosure: Neowin benefits from revenue of each sale made through our branded deals site powered by StackCommerce.
    • Sadly "beats Steam Machine" isn't much of a brag.
    • Passkeys: Think of them like a broken heart necklace. Imagine one of those heart necklaces that breaks into two matching pieces. One person keeps one half, and the other person keeps the other half. With passkeys, the website has one half, and you have the other half. If the website gets hacked and someone steals its half, that stolen piece is useless by itself. It cannot unlock your account without your matching half. This particular heart necklace is one of a kind, there is only one in existence. Your half of the necklace has to be stored somewhere. It might be stored on your phone, tablet, computer, security key, or a password manager that can sync it between all your devices. A security key is a small physical device that you keep with you, kind of like a house key, car key, or flash drive. I would not usually recommend a security key as the first option for the average person. For most people, it is easier to use their phone, computer, or a password manager that can sync passkeys between their devices. A security key is more like a spare key you keep in a safe place, just in case you lose access to your other devices or your password manager. Some security keys plug into your computer. Some plug into your phone or tablet. Some get tapped against your device. The idea is simple: a security key can hold another passkey for the same website. Think of it like creating a second one-of-a-kind heart necklace for the same account. One necklace could be paired with your password manager, while another necklace could be paired with your security key. That means the website has more than one matching half on file. One half matches the passkey in your password manager. Another half matches the passkey stored on your security key. So, if you lose access to your phone, computer, or password manager, you would still be able to log in using the passkey stored on your security key. Think of it like keeping an extra special necklace piece on a tiny keychain, stored somewhere safe. The website still has the matching half for that security key, but your half is safely stored inside the little key. A passkey does not automatically exist on every device you own. It lives wherever you save it. If your half is stored on one device, then that device is the one that has the matching piece. For example, if you create the passkey on your Windows computer and it is only saved to that computer, your iPhone does not automatically have that same half. If you create it on your iPhone and it only stays on that iPhone, your Android phone does not automatically have it either. That is where password managers come in. A password manager can act like a protected jewelry box for your passkeys. Instead of your half of the necklace being locked to only one device, the password manager can securely sync that half to your other approved devices. For example, Apple Passwords and iCloud Keychain can sync passkeys between your Apple devices. Google Password Manager can sync passkeys with your Google account. But password managers such as 1Password and Bitwarden can sync passkeys between everything, your phones, tablets and computers. Now, you might ask: “What happens if I lose access to the device that has my passkey?” That depends on where your passkey was saved and what recovery options the website gives you. If your passkey was synced through a password manager, you may be able to sign in from another device that has access to that same password manager. For example, if your passkey is saved in iCloud Keychain, Google Password Manager, 1Password, or Bitwarden, another approved device may still have access to it. If your passkey was saved only on one phone, computer, or security key, and you lose that device, then you may not have your half of the necklace anymore. In that case, you would usually need to use the website’s backup login or account recovery options. A lot of websites that support passkeys still let you fall back to your regular password. So if you lose access to your passkey, the site may still let you log in with your password, a code sent to your email, a text message, a recovery code, or some other account recovery process. That is convenient, but it is also important to understand: if the website still allows password login, then your password still matters. Passkeys are safer than passwords, but if your account still has a password as a backup, you should still use a strong, unique password and turn on two-factor authentication if the website offers it. This is why it is a good idea to have more than one safe way back into important accounts. For example, you might keep your passkey in a syncing password manager, add a second trusted device, save recovery codes somewhere safe, or set up a backup security key. A passkey is very secure, but just like a real key, you need a backup plan in case you lose access to it. Now, you might ask: “What stops a hacker from copying my half of the necklace?” That’s the important part: your half is protected. It is not something you type in, and it is not something the website gets to keep. Think of your half as being locked inside a tiny safe on your phone, computer, security key, or password manager. That safe only opens when you approve it with your fingerprint, face, PIN, or device password. When you log in, the website does not need to see your half. It only needs proof that your half matches its half. Your actual half is not handed over to the website. This is different from a password. With a password, you type the secret into the website. If you type it into a fake website, the hacker now has it. With a passkey, you are not typing your secret into the website. Your device is proving you have the matching half without giving the half away. That also helps protect you from fake websites. If someone makes a fake login page that looks like the real site, your device can tell it is not the real match. It will not use your passkey there. Now, could someone use your passkey if they stole your device, got into your password manager, or somehow unlocked the safe that holds your half? Yes, that is why your device password, PIN, fingerprint, face unlock, and password manager security still matter. But a hacker cannot just steal your passkey from the website or trick you into typing it into a fake page like they can with a password. That is why passkeys are safer than passwords. The two matching pieces have to come together, like two lovebirds who were once separated and are finally reunited.
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