[Official] Car Audio thread


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Thanks a lot for your input, but yeah I DIDN'T want anything that would boom, but I failed to mention I got a FANTASTIC deal on the sub/box combo, too good to pass up, $150 for the pair (and free installation which costs about $80 here) - my friend started working at a car-audio place for the summer and he got a great deal on it for me -, so I went with it even though I didn't want something so powerful. And it is a ported box.

I plan on keeping the sub turned down fairly low, I will experiment, and again if it ends up booming too much, oh well, I spent $150, I can resell it for more. When I do look into getting a real car audio system (when I get my own car - as I said I am amateur right now and just starting out) I will be spending a lot more cash and will keep in mind the advice you gave, thank you again :)

You are gonna be one of those BOOOOOM BOOOOOM tssss tsss BOOOOM BOOOOM cars heheh. You have about 15-20watts going into your main speakers and 500 going into your sub and its in a ported box. It will be loud and obnoxious hehe. You will hear it down the street. Unfortunately you cant just turn down the amp or you wont get proper travel on the sub. Sell the stuff and get something SEALED and a decent amp/sub around 200-300 watts imo. I bet your friend is a basshead.

Ohh and yeah fantastic deal though.

NC eh nolimit06? I worked in the triangle at the shops I mentioned.

Not to bad but ported is going to be loud as hell :p What kind of music do you listen too? Sealed is better if your into quality and clarity in your sound, I listen to a bunch of metal and rock with very little rap/hip hop and sealed is perfect ;)

All kinds, but recently more rap/hip hop... Occasionally though I will put in some rock etc. - that being said, if the majority of my time I am listening to rap/hip hop I can leave the bass on, then if I switch to something like rock I could potentially turn the bass off, yes?

You are gonna be one of those BOOOOOM BOOOOOM tssss tsss BOOOOM BOOOOM cars heheh. You have about 15-20watts going into your main speakers and 500 going into your sub and its in a ported box. It will be loud and obnoxious hehe. You will hear it down the street. Unfortunately you cant just turn down the amp or you wont get proper travel on the sub. Sell the stuff and get something SEALED and a decent amp/sub around 200-300 watts imo. I bet your friend is a basshead.

Ohh and yeah fantastic deal though.

NC eh nolimit06? I worked in the triangle at the shops I mentioned.

Hahaha, oh yeah my friend is a big bass guy, he has got some pretty big boomin' subs in his car.

... I am almost considering getting bigger speakers now... Just to compensate for the large bass I didn't want.

I know what I will do, I am going to see how it feels when it's in my car, then decide if I will potentially keep the large bass (as it will sound good for SOME -a lot- of the music that I listen to) and get another amp/better speakers... or sell the bass/amp and get something smaller

This is likely impractical and I am probably not aware of why I can not do this... and I don't know why I thought of it... It may not even work ... When I do get my own car... If I still have this bass, I was thinking, what if I had two 12" subs in the back with two separate amps... One in a ported box (the one I have now), one in a sealed box (one I would buy)... Could I not use just one at a time, depending on the type of music I was listening to? (I mean I guess they wouldn't be perfectly center but with that much power idk how much I would even notice since it's in such small space anyway... I imagine all amps would be tied up to the battery etc. Then I could physically turn off one amp at a time, it wouldn't be like driving down the road then turn off and on various amps just because a song would change... This is a lot of hassle I bet, and not worth it for a lot of people I imagine, it was just an idea I randomly had

NC eh nolimit06? I worked in the triangle at the shops I mentioned.

I live in Goldsboro, my local shop is called Speakerworks and I am friends with the manager so I can get some pretty good deals from time to time ;)

Until it was completely ripped out of my car I had...

Bought in 2007

Pioneer 7900-BT Deck

Energy 6 1/2" Speakers x 4

Infinity Perfect 12" Sub

Bassworx Sub Box

MTX 4002 AMP

MTX 4004 AMP

Stinger wiring kit w/ 1.2 farad capacitor

Dynamat

Maybe one day I'll buy a system again, but I doubt it :(

Until it was completely ripped out of my car I had...

Bought in 2007

Pioneer 7900-BT Deck

Energy 6 1/2" Speakers x 4

Infinity Perfect 12" Sub

Bassworx Sub Box

MTX 4002 AMP

MTX 4004 AMP

Stinger wiring kit w/ 1.2 farad capacitor

Dynamat

Maybe one day I'll buy a system again, but I doubt it :(

Stolen?

Rule of thumb with a nice system (bass). Turn it down 2-3 miles before you get where you are going. Sometimes people will follow you though.

I learned that the hard way lol

Good advice for anyone who doesn't follow that rule :p

I learned that the hard way lol

Good advice for anyone who doesn't follow that rule :p

How'd they get in? (obviously I know no car is impenetrable and can be broken into)

I am just wondering specifically in this case, ****ty to hear about that, have you replaced any of it since then?

They ripped it out of a 2001 Volkswagen Jetta 1.8T Wolfsburg.

I'm not sure how they got in but I was just walking to the corner store and I saw that all my windows were down in the parking lot outside my friends place. I thought that was weird, then when I came close to the car, I saw that everything had been ripped out (except for the deck for some reason). I have since replaced the speakers with cheap ones.

I'm selling my car soon anyways, so there's no real point to replace it.

It kinda makes me sad even remembering about it.. I've tried to block it from my memory haha

How'd they get in? (obviously I know no car is impenetrable and can be broken into)

I am just wondering specifically in this case, ****ty to hear about that, have you replaced any of it since then?

tools can be bought at amazon to unlock doors....

for example

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Tools-Inflatable-Wedge-Lockout/dp/B002Z8HZ6M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1310391601&sr=8-4

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Car-Lockout-Slim-Tool/dp/B000NEEFI6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1310391661&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Lock-Technology-LTI145-Multi-Piece-Inflate-/dp/B0012PS4ZU/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1310391690&sr=8-8

Cleanly unlock any car when you leave your keys in the car. The air bag thing is new though, it pops the door open enough to slide something in to hit the unlock button on the door, it takes less than a minute to get in cleanly without anyone noticing. Unfortunatly even though this was really made for honest people, bad people can get their hands on this and use it for bad things.

What;

-> Entire US AMPS and RE Audio Setup

a. 2x MD42 4-Channel, MD43 4-Channel, MD21 2-Channel, 2x MD2D Mono

b. Stinger SP1000D, 2x Stinger SP2150D, Stinger Pro Series 0ga

c. 4x 6.5 XXX RE Audio Comp, 3x 6.5 RE Audio, 4x TW1 RE Tweeter (2000w Total)

d. Pioneer FH-P8000BT (Headunit), Pioneer F500BT (Navigation), Memphis EQ

e. 2x 12' RE MX 1500w RMS Subwoofers (3000w Total)

f. Dynamat Xtreme 2 Layers on Entire Vehicle

Vehicle;

-> 1999 Honda Passport EX (167,000 miles as of 01/31/2011)

-> Kirker Sapphire Kandy Blue (Metallic Quicksilver Base)

-> 20' Status Custom Painted

-> 280A DC Power Alternator 15.2v Regulator Internal

29822190049_large.jpg

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29822190048_large.jpg

[me]Waits to be topped.[/me]

Being topped is easy. Making that statement is childish.

Can anyone here top you, not sure. But this is a tech site on the majority so probably not.

If it counts I think my system is low line compared to what is out there :p. I work in the Tech Field so just because its a tech site doesn't mean there aren't audio junkies here. I said that because I figured someone would easily top me.

What;

-> Entire US AMPS and RE Audio Setup

a. 2x MD42 4-Channel, MD43 4-Channel, MD21 2-Channel, 2x MD2D Mono

b. Stinger SP1000D, 2x Stinger SP2150D, Stinger Pro Series 0ga

c. 4x 6.5 XXX RE Audio Comp, 3x 6.5 RE Audio, 4x TW1 RE Tweeter (2000w Total)

d. Pioneer FH-P8000BT (Headunit), Pioneer F500BT (Navigation), Memphis EQ

e. 2x 12' RE MX 1500w RMS Subwoofers (3000w Total)

f. Dynamat Xtreme 2 Layers on Entire Vehicle

Vehicle;

-> 1999 Honda Passport EX (167,000 miles as of 01/31/2011)

-> Kirker Sapphire Kandy Blue (Metallic Quicksilver Base)

-> 20' Status Custom Painted

-> 280A DC Power Alternator 15.2v Regulator Internal

[me]Waits to be topped.[/me]

Jesus. Well done. That's an incredible set up you have there!

So as some of you may remember, I just got a Clarion PXW1251 Subwoofer in a Rockford Fosgate ported enclosure being powered by a Kenwood Kac-8105d amplifier...

ANYWAYS, I am enjoying it so far, still have to do some adjustments (just got it all installed yesterday)... here is the issue I am having, the subwoofer plays fine while on the radio, but when I change the source to either AUX or CD, the amp turns off... NOW before you go saying it's hooked up to some antenna wire (which I read somewhere else) it is not. I double checked and it is coming out of my Panasonic CQC700u's little blue wire which is the remote on switch.

That being said, have any of you tried/heard of/and can recommend, wiring my amp's remote-on wire to the fuse for my windshield wipers, I heard that this is a viable option, I am just unsure of it.

Any input is appreciated

Cheers

EDIT: Discovered that is not a good idea, however there are many empty fuse spaces in my fuse box, I just need to find one that is live only when the car ignition is on and I will hook my amp up to that, thanks anyways my friends!

If it counts I think my system is low line compared to what is out there :p. I work in the Tech Field so just because its a tech site doesn't mean there aren't audio junkies here. I said that because I figured someone would easily top me.

Haha people take things a bit too serious don't they? :p

That Yaris looks interesting.

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For most people, it is easier to use their phone, computer, or a password manager that can sync passkeys between their devices. A security key is more like a spare key you keep in a safe place, just in case you lose access to your other devices or your password manager. Some security keys plug into your computer. Some plug into your phone or tablet. Some get tapped against your device. The idea is simple: a security key can hold another passkey for the same website. Think of it like creating a second one-of-a-kind heart necklace for the same account. One necklace could be paired with your password manager, while another necklace could be paired with your security key. That means the website has more than one matching half on file. One half matches the passkey in your password manager. Another half matches the passkey stored on your security key. So, if you lose access to your phone, computer, or password manager, you would still be able to log in using the passkey stored on your security key. Think of it like keeping an extra special necklace piece on a tiny keychain, stored somewhere safe. The website still has the matching half for that security key, but your half is safely stored inside the little key. A passkey does not automatically exist on every device you own. It lives wherever you save it. If your half is stored on one device, then that device is the one that has the matching piece. For example, if you create the passkey on your Windows computer and it is only saved to that computer, your iPhone does not automatically have that same half. If you create it on your iPhone and it only stays on that iPhone, your Android phone does not automatically have it either. That is where password managers come in. A password manager can act like a protected jewelry box for your passkeys. 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If your passkey was saved only on one phone, computer, or security key, and you lose that device, then you may not have your half of the necklace anymore. In that case, you would usually need to use the website’s backup login or account recovery options. A lot of websites that support passkeys still let you fall back to your regular password. So if you lose access to your passkey, the site may still let you log in with your password, a code sent to your email, a text message, a recovery code, or some other account recovery process. That is convenient, but it is also important to understand: if the website still allows password login, then your password still matters. Passkeys are safer than passwords, but if your account still has a password as a backup, you should still use a strong, unique password and turn on two-factor authentication if the website offers it. This is why it is a good idea to have more than one safe way back into important accounts. For example, you might keep your passkey in a syncing password manager, add a second trusted device, save recovery codes somewhere safe, or set up a backup security key. A passkey is very secure, but just like a real key, you need a backup plan in case you lose access to it. Now, you might ask: “What stops a hacker from copying my half of the necklace?” That’s the important part: your half is protected. It is not something you type in, and it is not something the website gets to keep. Think of your half as being locked inside a tiny safe on your phone, computer, security key, or password manager. That safe only opens when you approve it with your fingerprint, face, PIN, or device password. When you log in, the website does not need to see your half. It only needs proof that your half matches its half. Your actual half is not handed over to the website. This is different from a password. With a password, you type the secret into the website. If you type it into a fake website, the hacker now has it. With a passkey, you are not typing your secret into the website. Your device is proving you have the matching half without giving the half away. That also helps protect you from fake websites. If someone makes a fake login page that looks like the real site, your device can tell it is not the real match. It will not use your passkey there. Now, could someone use your passkey if they stole your device, got into your password manager, or somehow unlocked the safe that holds your half? Yes, that is why your device password, PIN, fingerprint, face unlock, and password manager security still matter. But a hacker cannot just steal your passkey from the website or trick you into typing it into a fake page like they can with a password. That is why passkeys are safer than passwords. The two matching pieces have to come together, like two lovebirds who were once separated and are finally reunited.
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