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I'm going to give kudos to how Windows 8 behaved today.

I built a new desktop today and the only thing I used from the old tower was my primary HDD. Thought I was going to have to do a complete reinstall, but the damn thing booted right up and configured the new hardware, no user intervention required.

Went from

Motherboard - Asus M2N-X

CPU - A64X2 5600+@ 2.9Ghz

Memory 4GB Corsair Value RAM DDR2 667

GPU - Sapphire Radeon HD3450 (Discrete)

To

Motherboard - Asus M4A88T-V Evo

CPU - Athlon II X2 260 @ 3.2GHz

Memory - 8GB Corsair Dominator DDR3

GPU - Integrated Radeon HD4250

Seasonic X series 560 modular PSU

LOL yeah, I know, my new rig is still "old" but it's faster than what I had and it does what I want. Besides, it was cheap to build :D

I'm going to give kudos to how Windows 8 behaved today.

I built a new desktop today and the only thing I used from the old tower was my primary HDD. Thought I was going to have to do a complete reinstall, but the damn thing booted right up and configured the new hardware, no user intervention required.

Went from

Motherboard - Asus M2N-X

CPU - A64X2 5600+@ 2.9Ghz

Memory 4GB Corsair Value RAM DDR2 667

GPU - Sapphire Radeon HD3450 (Discrete)

To

Motherboard - Asus M4A88T-V Evo

CPU - Athlon II X2 260 @ 3.2GHz

Memory - 8GB Corsair Dominator DDR3

GPU - Integrated Radeon HD4250

Seasonic X series 560 modular PSU

LOL yeah, I know, my new rig is still "old" but it's faster than what I had and it does what I want. Besides, it was cheap to build :D

marginally faster.

if i were would stay with that till it die then get a real upgrade

marginally faster.

if i were would stay with that till it die then get a real upgrade

I'm probably going to upgrade to at least a 500GB HDD and throw in a Radeon 6670, but thats about as far as I plan to go. Originally bought a 3.4GHz Athlon II x2 270 for $55, but the ebay seller decided not to send it so I bought this CPU local. I could probably pickup a Phenom II x4 for a boost later if needed. As it is, no performance issues with Windows 8, but the previous rig ran fine with it too. Got a micro ATX that the CPU/RAM from old rig is going into to make a HTPC. Just have to get a decent HTPC case that won't break the bank.

I would to see the metro interface with not so big fonts and more mouse/keyboard friendly.

Windows 8 RP is, amazingly, the most keyboard-friendly Windows since Windows 2000 Professional. I think you mean more *mouse* friendly.

If you are referring to the StartScreen, simply zoom out (Ctrl+DownArrow OR Ctrl+mouse-down) - default is zoomed-in.

I'm probably going to upgrade to at least a 500GB HDD and throw in a Radeon 6670, but thats about as far as I plan to go. Originally bought a 3.4GHz Athlon II x2 270 for $55, but the ebay seller decided not to send it so I bought this CPU local. I could probably pickup a Phenom II x4 for a boost later if needed. As it is, no performance issues with Windows 8, but the previous rig ran fine with it too. Got a micro ATX that the CPU/RAM from old rig is going into to make a HTPC. Just have to get a decent HTPC case that won't break the bank.

I *have* a 1 TB boot drive (acquired before the Thai floods as part of another job) which I used first for the CP, and now the RP, as a boot drive. The CPU remains the Q6600 I got last year, and the GPU is the HD5450 from two years, two CPUs, and a motherboard ago. My ATX mid-tower is eight years old (I replaced the two dead fans a month ago), while the motherboard currently *in* the case is mATX. A *minimus* IB upgrade is not even $400 (CPU and motherboard - I have 8 GB of DDR3-1333 I bought last year for this planned upgrade; while I do plan on buying another 8 GB, unless there's another BBQ gone wrong at Sumitomo, I don't see DDR3-1333 returning to even last year's prices until 2014 at the earliest). So why the upgrade? The one thing that puts the pressure on power-wise; desktop virtualization - not gaming. For Windows 8-compatible games (that is *all* games I have thrown at it that I would normally run on 7 except a mere two), performance is equivalent to, or better than, Windows 7, on the same settings and same hardware. Also, the motherboard has hit the memory wall (it has two DDR2 DIMM slots, and both are populated with 2 GB DIMMs). Buying another LGA775 motherboard - even one based on DDR3 - is investing in a dead socket; why should I do that?

The Minimus Ivy Bridge Upgrade

CPU - Intel Core i5-3570K - http://www.microcent...duct_id=0388577

Motherboard - ASUS P8Z77-V - http://www.microcent...duct_id=0386886

And that's it.

The current "brand X" 600W PSU can stay (i5-3570K, even overclocked to 4 GHz, uses less power than Q6600 at stock).

Because of the power headroom I game there, any possible GPU upgrade (most likely is HIS HD7770 iCooler - http://www.microcent...duct_id=0387845) won't do an ACA on the rebuilt system.

Anything else can be done *down the road*.

I upgraded for three reasons. The crappy nforce chipset in my old motherboard was having issues with USB data transfers and the integrated sound randomly "popped" my speakers when I would click through files in Explorer. Didn't happen often, but often enough to irritate me. The final reason was it's been a few years since I actually built a complete system and wanted to make sure I still knew how :laugh: My cable management still sucks but the modular PSU helped with that. I was able to overcome that advantage and still make damn mess though :rolleyes:

I *have* a 1 TB boot drive (acquired before the Thai floods as part of another job) which I used first for the CP, and now the RP, as a boot drive. The CPU remains the Q6600 I got last year, and the GPU is the HD5450 from two years, two CPUs, and a motherboard ago. My ATX mid-tower is eight years old (I replaced the two dead fans a month ago), while the motherboard currently *in* the case is mATX. A *minimus* IB upgrade is not even $400 (CPU and motherboard - I have 8 GB of DDR3-1333 I bought last year for this planned upgrade; while I do plan on buying another 8 GB, unless there's another BBQ gone wrong at Sumitomo, I don't see DDR3-1333 returning to even last year's prices until 2014 at the earliest). So why the upgrade? The one thing that puts the pressure on power-wise; desktop virtualization - not gaming. For Windows 8-compatible games (that is *all* games I have thrown at it that I would normally run on 7 except a mere two), performance is equivalent to, or better than, Windows 7, on the same settings and same hardware. Also, the motherboard has hit the memory wall (it has two DDR2 DIMM slots, and both are populated with 2 GB DIMMs). Buying another LGA775 motherboard - even one based on DDR3 - is investing in a dead socket; why should I do that?

The Minimus Ivy Bridge Upgrade

CPU - Intel Core i5-3570K - http://www.microcent...duct_id=0388577

Motherboard - ASUS P8Z77-V - http://www.microcent...duct_id=0386886

And that's it.

The current "brand X" 600W PSU can stay (i5-3570K, even overclocked to 4 GHz, uses less power than Q6600 at stock).

Because of the power headroom I game there, any possible GPU upgrade (most likely is HIS HD7770 iCooler - http://www.microcent...duct_id=0387845) won't do an ACA on the rebuilt system.

Anything else can be done *down the road*.

Internet Explorer 10 fixes

Switching tabs flashes a remnant image of sorts.

All tabs that are just starting to load flash a prompt that says they are unresponsive, followed by loading. I imagine that unresponsive prompt may be longer for low-end users.

Trying to load from a poorly hosted website 200 tabs test failed - IE10 consumed large quantities of CPU and some tabs started displaying gibberish. Better yet IE10 warned me that some tabs (which were loading forever instead of timing out) had been stopped because of some security rationale.

Type this as a URL to get the warning prompt IE10 gives off if a site is loading too long (I used Google as an example)...

res://ieframe.dll/acr_depnx_error.htm#google.com,http://www.google.com

And generally, IE10 has some unresponsive quirks especially when tab whoring (100-200x tabs)

I also noticed that I could not scroll the tab bar - epic failure.

Also W8 should ban classic shell

I'm going to give kudos to how Windows 8 behaved today.

I built a new desktop today and the only thing I used from the old tower was my primary HDD. Thought I was going to have to do a complete reinstall, but the damn thing booted right up and configured the new hardware, no user intervention required.

Went from

Motherboard - Asus M2N-X

CPU - A64X2 5600+@ 2.9Ghz

Memory 4GB Corsair Value RAM DDR2 667

GPU - Sapphire Radeon HD3450 (Discrete)

To

Motherboard - Asus M4A88T-V Evo

CPU - Athlon II X2 260 @ 3.2GHz

Memory - 8GB Corsair Dominator DDR3

GPU - Integrated Radeon HD4250

Seasonic X series 560 modular PSU

LOL yeah, I know, my new rig is still "old" but it's faster than what I had and it does what I want. Besides, it was cheap to build :D

That's actually due to a lot of the Windows 7 underpinnings underneath (Windows 7 and even Windows Server 2008 and later are THE most forgiving in terms of hardware migration of any Windows I have run across).

Pre-7, upgrading just the motherboard would have forced a reinstall - however, because I'm not only going from Intel chipset to Intel chipset, but staying with the same brand of motherboard, the ONLY OS I MAY have to reinstall would be Windows 7 (it's a triple - all of which are Windows; 7, 8CP, and 8RP); Windows 8 CP, which was installed last, is the default. (I also prefer the CP's mouse-friendly boot menu - 7 and 8RP use the older boot menu.)

This topic is now closed to further replies.
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    • Sihoo Doro C300 Pro V2 Ergonomic Office Chair review: The Ikea of chairs by Steven Parker I've reviewed a few gaming chairs over the past three years or so and generally found them to score well in our reviews. SIHOO reached out asking if I was interested in taking a look at their flagship chair, the Doro C300 Pro V2. I never got the chance to check out its predecessor, but the V2 is described as an "Adaptive Ergonomic Chair." It became available to buy in April of this year. Let's get things rolling with a closer look at the specifications and features. Specifications Doro C300 Pro V2 Model Ergonomic Materials Mesh Back and Seat; Soft PU Coated Armrests Height adjustability 45.5 - 53 cm / 17.5" - 20.9" Seat (w+d) 52 x 43 - 47 cm / 20.5" x 16.9" - 18.5" (adjustable) Backrest 52 – 60 cm / 20.5" - 23.6" (adjustable) Lumbar support Mesh built-in (adjustable) Armrest adjustability 8D Bionic Armrests Rocking angle 105°, 120°, 135° (fixed) Neck support Mesh built-in (adjustable) Net weight 27.3 kg / 59.64 lbs Weight support 150 kg / 330 lbs Colors Black, White Warranty 5 years (upon registering) Price $499.99, $539.99 Introduction At first glance, it looks like a chair that in another life wants to be a Herman Miller; It certainly looks like my Aeron Remastered, but the Doro C300 Pro V2 has quite a few more features and costs quite a bit less. SIHOO says that it is made up of a "DynaCore" system that tracks your movement and synchronizes the headrest, backrest, lumbar support, and armrests as you shift, twist, or recline. They also say that the "SyncroFlex Backrest" molds to your spine, which kind of describes how the mesh fabric works in most ergonomic chairs, but anyway. Below are the meat and potatoes measurements for the chair. Here is the same tech sheet, but in inches. Durability I would be remiss to not talk about the various durability testing this chair underwent before coming to market, as this is claimed on the product page. First of all, the chair is BIFMA-, SGS-, and TÜV-certified. As for durability, the tests undergone were: 100,000 Castor cycles tested 120,000 Armrest cycles tested 120,000 Recline cycles tested 120,000 Gas lift cycles tested 60,000 Armrest durability cycles tested 120,000 Rotation cycles tested Nothing about weights testing, though. Now that's all disclosed, now onto my own personal findings. Assembly The Doro C300 Pro V2 came in two large boxes (1) (2), and everything was packed very well, protecting the different parts of the chair. In the box, there is a folded sheet that explains the 12 steps to assemble it; they are: Remove the bottom cover on the aluminum base; Insert the five legs into the aluminum base and use ten screws to fasten them; Insert the castors into the legs; Replace the bottom cover on the bottom of the aluminum base; Place the Class 4 Hydraulics gas cylinder into the aluminum base; Screw the bottom part of the arm rests, taking care of the orientation using two screws on each side; Use three torx screws to fasten the footrest to the bottom of the seat; Fasten the backrest to the seat using four torx bolts; Fasten the armrests to the backrest using four Torx bolts (two on each side), taking care to note the orientation; Place the chair onto the Class 4 Hydraulics gas cylinder; Insert the headrest into the top of the backrest; Use two torx screws to fasten the headrest to the backrest. There's also an online guide you can refer to. Carefully unpacking the two boxes took around 15 minutes because almost everything is wrapped in plastic and protective foam; the chair assembly itself took around an hour. I say in the above assembly steps to take note of the orientation, because it's not obvious which way around the bottom portion of the armrests go, and although there is an L and R on the bottom of the armrests, it also wasn't clear from the instructions which was actually left or right, facing the chair, or in the seated down orientation? Anyway, I ended up putting the bottom portions on the wrong sides, and after securing one of the armrests, I discovered that although it was on the correct side, the armrest base could rotate a full 360°, but not when bolted to the chair, so I had to remove it, rotate it, and then bolt it back on. Truly an Ikea experience! Also, to complicate things further, although all the parts are labeled from A to X (yes, that's 24 parts) unhelpfully, these letters do not appear on the parts themselves or the package with the bolts, screws, and washers. There's also a pair of protective gloves in the box, but I think they were made for much smaller hands than I have. Even my friend, who is 5.1, had difficulty putting them on. Once assembled, I needed to sit down. Anyway, as I said, it looks quite similar to my Herman Miller. And here is the back of it. If you look at the product page and on Amazon, it seems like a lot of thought has gone into the chair itself and what it's capable of, but there is no mention at all about the castors, and this is an area where I think the chair trips up quite quickly. I found it difficult to move the chair in any direction. I asked a friend who came to visit me earlier this week to test my findings, and she said that the wheels were "no good," so it definitely isn't just me. I am 6'2 myself and a big guy, I work from home and gained a few pounds from mostly staying in and the hell away from other people. However, the Doro C300 Pro V2 is rated for up to 150kg (330lbs), which in my case is used well within its max rating. Ergonomics The number of adjustments you can make, right up to setting it in nap mode — which I haven't fully tested yet — is what you'd expect from a premium chair. Yes, you can go up and down (max 7.5 cm adjustment), rock back and forth (with tilt adjustment), and lock the chair between three stages of 105°, 120°, 135°, which is not quite as flat as the AndaSeat I tested at 160°. Some thought has also gone into the "8D" armrests, too, which are cushioned but quite firm; you'll only know it if you press hard into the PU-covered tops, which give about half a centimeter, but it's enough to ensure your skin won't get awkwardly stuck to it in warmer (or sweatier) conditions. It almost feels like plastic and is very easy to keep clean. However, the armrest positions move far too easily, and I am not sure what that "elbow" function is. Maybe it is good for a short person with short arms, anyway, I never used it and kept it flat at all times. There are eight levels of adjustment for the armrests, they are: backwards, forwards, swing left/right, height up and down, tilt, and 360° rotation, which can be handy for desk clearance. As I said, the armrest pads shift far too easily, which could give off an ergonomic vibe, but who wants the armrest sliding when you are shifting weight? The height adjustability does lock into place when lifting and adjusting. Comfort This is ultimately what it boils down to at the end of the day, right? Quite a lot of reviews praise the comfort of this chair, and I don't disagree that the mesh seating is quite comfortable. I am used to the material from my daily Herman Miller. However, the backrest cannot be locked into place, and this is actually a feature; as you shift or recline yourself on the chair, the backrest moves with your body. It took some getting used to. The lumbar gives ample support, but I would have preferred an adjustable one built into the seat base, as this causes the backrest to move up and down at will. Again, as with my previous chair review, this chair is also rated for tall people, but nowhere in the product documentation does it say how tall. Being 6'2 myself, I'm happy to say that the backrest is tall and wide enough, and thought has been given to being able to adjust the neck rest, but as others have mentioned in their reviews, people as tall as 6.2ft is about the limit for the neckrest. Conclusion What I didn't like The footrest is rated for 15kg (33 lbs), which to me seems a bit light, and after looking online, it seems like a chair footrest for adults must be at least twice that rating. In all honesty, they are just hollow metal tubes, so it is not recommended to let a kid sit on them. I also feel like it doesn't really go out far enough for my height, so that kind of puts the dampener on me being able to use it regularly. I'll just have to continue to use my subwoofer as a footrest! I do not like the armrests being able to shift around as easily as they can, and they are a little too forward-positioned in the chair to comfortably sit close to my desk, because even in the lowest height position, they don't allow me to go under the desk like is possible with my Herman Miller. I also feel like this chair could have been delivered partially constructed, especially the armrests on the seat, and why the aluminum base wasn't already pre-constructed (without the castors) is baffling, considering it would have fit in one of the two boxes that way. The instructions also need to be clearer. On the pamphlet, there's an A to X listing (which is also used in the steps), but none of the physical parts use this lettering system! What I did like I'll be honest, I haven't used it for very long, just one week, and seating comfort is subjective after all! Any spills wiped straight off it, the stitching, and the lines look great, not a fray to be seen or stitch out of place. It looks kind of cool, too. My favorite feature of these seats is the nap mode. While you're not lying completely flat, it leans far back enough to make you easily doze off after a heavy gaming or working session. Overall, this chair offers plenty of comfort features. The MSRP does vary quite a bit depending on the region, at £549.99 in the UK, and €580 in Europe, and $599 before tax in the U.S. However, shipping is free, which is a bonus for such a heavy item. Is it worth it, though? At three years' warranty, I think it's a decent deal. Another firm out of Germany sent me a free replacement hydraulic gas spring for a chair that failed after almost four years, so it was well outside its two-year warranty. My advice is to always try, as you might have the same luck I did. If I could fault it at all, it would be the constant shifting of the armrests and backrest. Where to buy Although the footrest variant normally costs $539.99, it has been discounted to $469.99 on the official website in Black or White. In fact, the non-footrest variant is only $40 cheaper. On Amazon, it currently costs more at $499.99 links below. Sihoo Doro C300 Pro V2 for $469.99 (official website) Sihoo Doro C300 Pro V2 for $499.99 at Amazon US SIHOO provided a free sample without any review or pre-approval. Good to know This Amazon link is U.S. specific, and not available in other regions unless specified. We only use first-party seller links (at the time of article publishing); ensure that you purchase from a first-party seller link only. Check out Today's Deals on Amazon | or our recent tech deals. Become a Prime member (for Students or SNAP) via Neowin Get Prime Access - Prime for half price (for qualifying Medicaid, EBT, SNAP) Subscribe to Prime Video, Audible Plus, Music Unlimited or Kindle Unlimited via Neowin As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
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