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If the said problem is related to you over taxing the router with p2p traffic -- then sure its quite possible a router that is better suited for p2p would not have the problem.. Ie a wrt54GL running 3rd party firmware as an example.

where did you come up with the 20KB/sec limit??? You just pull it out of your ass?

What is the connection speed you get from your ISP? You could go to http://www.speedtest.net/ when your internet is working decent, and your not doing torrents and do a test.

post-14624-1219580101.png

So from this test my upload speed is 1352 kb/s, so lets say its 1200 to be on the safe side. This is reported in bits, so to convert to bytes divide by 8 = 1200/8 = 150KBytes/sec.

Now lets make sure we only use at max 80% of that.. so my upload limit should at MAX be 150 * .80 = 120KBytes/sec if you still having issues lower it some more.

When you fill up your upload side.. you can not query dns to find out where to go, you can not query the webserver to send you pages, etc.. so even if your not using all of your download bandwidth.. If your upload side is full -- your internet browsing will be utter crap.

Since you do not know who your using for dns, its pretty much a given your pointing to your router.. From a command prompt do a ipconfig /all

It will show you what IP your machine is using for dns.

C:\>ipconfig /all

Windows IP Configuration

Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . : p4-24g

Primary Dns Suffix . . . . . . . : local.lan

Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Hybrid

IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No

WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No

DNS Suffix Search List. . . . . . : local.lan

Ethernet adapter Gig:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :

Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Realtek RTL8169/8110 Family Gigabit Ethernet NIC

Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-09-5B-E0-FB-AD

Dhcp Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No

IP Address. . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.100

Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0

Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.253

DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.4

If that is the same IP address as your Default gateway -- then your bouncing your dns off your router, who then asks another server.. Be it your ISP dns by default, or could of changed it. But that sounds like a big no.

Change your machine to use opendns, or your isp directly (should be able to see where your router is pointing in a status page on it) Or use 4.2.2.2, 4.2.2.3 or 4.2.2.4 which are dns that answer to the public and are quite fast.

The opendns site has all kinds of help on change your machines dns, or change your router to use it, or have it hand different dns to your clients, etc.

When your router is quite busy handling all the connections for p2p, its possible that dns is not on the top of its priority lists ;) And can become quite sluggish or not respond at all if the router is too busy. Most soho routers dns forwarders blow chunks anyway.. Expecting them to be responsive while your router is busy handling 1,000 of connections is quite often asking too much ;)

Why didn't you just tell him to ask his ISP what plan he has (if it is not known)? You seem helpful but arrogant at the same time.

Sounds an awful lot like the router is hitting a memory limit, and it's either preventing new connections, or freezing and resetting.

The third-party firmwares don't have this issue to anywhere near the extent of the base ones for cheap routers, as they are able to handle massive amounts of connections through better management and efficiency. One particular variant of Tomato, SpeedMod is able to handle around 6000 connections even while doing QoS traffic shaping and still remain responsive.

Tomato is probably the easiest to use third party firmware, but DD-WRT is pretty darn good too and has compatibility with far more devices. The WRT54GL is the simplest device to load firmware onto as well - just go to the web interface and feed it the new firmware file - and any web retailer ought to have them in stock. You may find others for cheaper that DD-WRT will run on, but you'll at the very least have to use TFTP to load the image, so be sure to review the flashing procedure for any model before you buy.

The range on the WRT54GL is quite solid to begin with, and provides the option to install external antennas easily. The Buffalo WHR-HP-G54 will provide an even better signal, but it seems to be a difficult piece of hardware to find on my side of the pond.

In any case, your issue is common to almost every low end Netgear, D-Link, and Linksys router ever made (with the notable exception of the classic WRT54G v1-4). Replace it with a third-party firmware capable device, and you'll find yourself much happier. :)

You seem helpful but arrogant at the same time.
What exactly are the point of your posts??? Other than quoting mine?

Here -- you really should read this

https://www.neowin.net/forum/index.php?auto...;showentry=1565

@LiqHead, you seem to be the arrogant one. First you quote BudMan's post telling him that its bull****. However many other posters also believe that the router is at fault and not the ISP. You haven't provided anything useful for this discussion. BudMan does a great job helping and writing descriptive posts. He is very knowledgeable and everything that he has posted is accurate. In addition having the OP use speedtest.net was a good idea because what the isp claim you get and what you get in reality is different.

Not sure I would call "WIP" specifically stated as "working"

WIP = Work In Progress (Located under version). Sometimes we need the hardware to do the port. So feel free to contact Brainslayer via e-mail and provide us with the hardware so we can get this started!

I would suggest he read the thread that WIP leads too.. Seems he might only have 1MB of ram.. Trying to install to a WIP router when he did not even know what tomato was is not something I would suggest ;)

But sure, he could try it -- seems it couldn't make his router any less crappy - worse case is it becomes a brick, which he could use as a door stop, which I am sure it will be a lot better at doing than routing packets ;)

... BudMan does a great job helping and writing descriptive posts. He is very knowledgeable and everything that he has posted is accurate. In addition having the OP use speedtest.net was a good idea because what the isp claim you get and what you get in reality is different.

^^^ Agreed. BudMan may vent a little frustration at answering the same basic questions over and over. But just check through his posts and see how many times he has answered this exact question about router speed problems. He takes the time to even make screenshots for his posts, notating the images and uploading them.

Sure, if you haven't taken the time to read a manual, expect to take a lump on that particular point and be told to RTFM, but you will also be given experienced advice and accurate information.

EDIT: If Neowin were a reality TV show, and it were down to LiqHead and BudMan, I know which one I would rather see stay and contribute to Neowin. ;)

Edited by markjensen

i see your with virgin media, i have had loads of problems with them, TF2 was a major problem with them. Tried multiple routers. Their servers are really bad. I tried their tech support multiple times, i even had BT tell them to give them a call but they wouldn't.

I would recommend moving over to someone else, like O2.

I'm going to go out today and get the Linksys router. Since Ive been using the DNS servers, its all been fine. However the problem with TF2 came back. Soon as I ran it (for the 2nd time) it couldnt connect to any server. I quit it and found I couldnt connect to the internet either. A router reset fixed it. So to hell with Netgear.

Just a quickie. I just bought a Linksys WRT54GR V1.1. Will that work with tomato? And if so which version firmware do I use?

Also, I'm well ****ed off. I literally plugged in the router and setup the wireless about 10 minutes ago. Soon as I walked out of the room with my iPhone the signal went to 2 bars on the phone. Then died when I went into another room. And this bitch has 2 big antennas on it. What the hell?

Edited by _X_

WTF did you buy that router for??? WRT54GL is the one everyone in the thread has been telling you to get.

No tomato does not support that router, nor does dd-wrt, you can get openwrt to run on it -- if you compile it from source.

http://forum.openwrt.org/viewtopic.php?id=16563

I would suggest you return it -- and buy the GL!!

So your router choice came down to the "one they had" :rolleyes:

I would suggest you return it and order the GL model.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Linksys-WRT54GL-UK...4886&sr=8-1

As to whats wrong with it -- did you not even bother looking for reviews on said product before you laid down your hard earned cash??

post-14624-1220095203.jpg

A week of discussion, with reasons given to explain the recommendations. Over 40 posts in the thread from various members.

And you pick whatever was sitting on the shelf. :laugh:

I agree with BudMan. Return it. Get a good router (like one of the recommended units).

Yea, actually when you put it like that, it is kinda funny. Im one of the laziest people alive. Rather than order the unit online and wait, I wanted it there and then. Because they didnt have it, to hell with it, get that one.

I'm taking it back tomorrow and Ive just ordered the WRT54GL for ?50. That should take care of the problem. But there is one more I need help with.

That was the 4th router ive used in the house, and every one has been the same for signal quality. ****. If the WRT54GL is just as bad, could that show me something in the house blocking wifi? Or are wifi routers just not that good unless you pay over the odds?

Its beyond frustrating to loose signal when I step 5 meters away from the router.

Yea. On all 3 routers. I unplugged cordless phones thinking that was the problem. I moved the router from the living room to the spare room upstairs and still the same low signal. If your close to it, signal is perfect. But forget about taking your laptop to another room.

I think it has to be something like that. Its most odd. However the house across the street which is identical build to ours, has a cheap Belkin router. I can pick up his signal from my bedroom. Its not the end of the world, its just annoying as I cant enjoy the true benefits of wireless which is portability.

Well one thing the dd-wrt and I do believe tomato as well will allow you to do is up the output power. The default output is really low, normally if I recall correctly on the linksys like 28mw

You should be able to up this to 70 or 90 without really shortening the life of the unit, etc. I have a old v3.1 which has been running at 90 since I put dd-wrt on it. And even before that when running openwrt I had up the power.. So it has been running for YEARS on the higher output power.

You say you can pickup this other router from across the street.. Is his router in room with a window, does your room you can pick it up in have a window where you can see this house?

I would highly suggest you check the channel other wireless networks are on, and put your as far away as possible.. Quite a few routers default to channel 6 -- atleast here in the states.. You could grab netstumbler to show you, or once you put dd-wrt on your router you can use the site survey feature to view other wireless networks.

post-14624-1220280705_thumb.jpg

As you can see the majority of other wireless networks in the area are on 6, and the other 2 are higher. Mine is set to channel 1, you want to be as far away in channels as possible to other wireless networks around you. When it comes to connectivity issues also make sure your broadcasting your UNIQUE ssid, hiding it will only make connection to your own network harder and the security suggesting about turning it off is pure FUD!

If your not unique and you have other wireless networks around with the same ssid, then yes its possible for your client to get confused and try to change to a stronger signal, etc.

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This lets you keep Wi-Fi and Bluetooth on (say, if you want to receive notifications, for some reason) and keep audio playing when locked. Turning these features off effectively eliminates any standby battery drain. I left my Krono sitting for 24 hours with a clock screensaver on, and it did not drop a single percent. The pretty big 3,950 mAh battery justifies the device's thickness and ensures you do not have to charge it for long periods. Speaking of charging, it is capped at only 10W, which is a bit disappointing, as getting such a big battery to 100% takes a notably long time in the era of super-fast charging smartphones. DuRoBo Moodi The Moodi is a standalone, optional accessory for your Krono. It is a wireless remote with two customizable buttons that you can use to flip pages, control media, or scroll webpages. The accessory connects via Bluetooth. Despite having a built-in rechargeable battery, it is extremely light. While the Moodi's shape and form factor is not what I would call particularly ergonomic, it is not uncomfortable to hold and use. The Moodi comes with six removable magnetic buttons with various smiley faces. Buttons sit securely, and they have nice-feeling, albeit a little loud, clicks. It is a cute touch that adds a little more fun and character to the device. There is also an accented power button and a single status LED. The latter displays charging status and connection mode. The Moodi supports three modes: Reading: Buttons work as volume buttons, allowing you to flip pages in the built-in reader or other apps that support page turning with volume buttons. Media: Buttons work as skip forward/backward, which is useful when listening to audiobooks, podcasts, or music. Scroll: The third mode lets you scroll pages in the web browser or any other application The Krono properly detects the Moodi and presents you with an on-screen guide when you connect it for the first time (it also displays the battery level). However, you can only change modes by holding both buttons for a few seconds. It is also worth noting that the Moodi works with other devices. I connected it to my iPhone and it let me adjust volume or control media playback. Sadly, the scroll did not work, so you cannot use it to waste time scrolling TikToks. Overall, the Moodi is a cute little accessory, which I can recommend for those who read a lot. It is very useful for remote page flipping when you do not want to burden your hands by holding the Krono all the time. I only wish DuRoBo included a lanyard for the built-in loop. As for the battery life, after using the Moodi for a few days, I only managed to drop several percent of its 90 mAh battery. Despite the small size, it is rated for weeks of use, which is pretty impressive. At $35.99, I cannot say the Moodi is a must-have accessory, but I see the appeal. I prefer using the Krono with its Smart Dial, as I rarely read for more than 40-60 minutes in one sitting. However, if you have a stand and like reading for long periods, the Moodi is the right thing to have. It is a bit more expensive than regular page flippers on Amazon, but it is on par with similar products from Kobo or BOOX. Plus, it has a little more fun to it with removable buttons and better integration into the Krono. Conclusion At the end of the day, DuRoBo Krono is a nice pocket-sized e-reader. Its software focuses on the main things without trying to be everything at once. The smart dial idea is unique and great, and I wish more manufacturers had something similar in their devices. The display is also good, with an even frontlight and "always-on" support. I did not notice any deal-breaking issues with the Krono. However, you can feel that the idea needs some improvements, such as a slightly stiffer dial in a more ergonomic location, perhaps a little more premium materials, and better software customization. I hope the company won't give up on the idea and improve the dial and ergonomics in the second generation. Buy DuRoBo Krono Black - $279.99 on Amazon Buy DuRoBo Krono White - $279.99 on Amazon Buy DuRoBo Moodi - $35.99 on Amazon As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
    • In what way is any of what I said incorrect? To install an update you need to close all browser instances, upping it from once a month to once a fortnight is an inconvenience for users. Particularly when updates don't offer functionality that users want (notably copilot). Security updates should come as they are needed, not on a release schedule
    • Dopamine 3.0.6 by Razvan Serea Dopamine is an awesome free audio player which tries to make organizing and listening to music as simple and pretty as possible. Dopamine has been designed for Windows 7, Windows 8.x and Windows 10 and plays mp3, ogg vorbis, flac, wma and m4a/aac music formats quite well. The best part? It's created by long-time Neowin member, Raphaël Godart. If you’re looking for a music player to handle a large music collection, you should definitely give Dopamine a try. Dopamine 3.0.6 changelog: Fixed Manually edited album covers are overwritten on the next collection refresh Fixed AppImage package not working on modern GNU/Linux distributions Deleting song from playlist sometimes fails Playback controls only work when clicking on upper half of the buttons It's unclear that files must be tagged with an external ReplayGain scanner (for example rsgain) before normalization can take effect. Change to Artist or Album tags is not reflected in the song list view nor in the Now Playing information ReplayGain issues Smart playlist filters ignore text containing accents or other special characters Some MP3 files trigger an "MPEG header not found" error due to a too-narrow initial MPEG header scan range Changed Updated the Vietnamese translation Download: Dopamine 3.0.6 | 122.0 MB (Open Source) Links: Home Page | Forum Discussion | Screenshot | Other OSes Get alerted to all of our Software updates on Twitter at @NeowinSoftware
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