[Official] Forza Motorsports 2 Discussion


Recommended Posts

messhugah, you still don't have it? insane in the membrane! get this game dude it's the shiznitimajigabob.

seriously, as said just now, really addictive and "just one more race!", and before you know it the sun's coming up!

also very detailed indeed.

bangbang, that explains the better-looking replays. frankly, i'd be fine with this speed for gamplay as well, but i guess it'd be too slow for many players.

If I end up buying this game, I may take you on that offer. I drive that car in real life :D

nice ride :D

i only get to drive in my dad's 1994 Opel Vectra and although it's always nice to drive a real car, I can't wait for him to get a new car (which he will by the end of this year. ^^)

As for the Exige, I'm not sure what's so special about it. I just built a Class A Exige and the numbers aren't over whelming. 0 - 60mph in 3.7 and 0 - 100mph in 7.7. That's about average, but it only has a top speed of ~150.

As in real life, the "special" thing with the Exige is it's handling. A real Exige S has pretty similar performance to what you posted, but, will destroy many a larger, more expensive car round a track. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_Laps ...

Anyways, here's my (rather obvious) attempt at a design - it's not perfect but, I have no ability at all...

General.jpg

Could someone explain the stats to me on the vehicles? I already know like hp, torque and weight. But what does the rarity do? And like top speed 5.2 and acceleration 3.9 and what not. I mean i see cars with low acceleration points that have a lot of v8 power under the hood to boot compared to lets say a inline 4.

Could someone explain the stats to me on the vehicles? I already know like hp, torque and weight. But what does the rarity do? And like top speed 5.2 and acceleration 3.9 and what not. I mean i see cars with low acceleration points that have a lot of v8 power under the hood to boot compared to lets say a inline 4.

Rarity primarily affects how many kredits you receive after each race, as they are calculated along with your score to gain extra kredits.

The speed, acceleration, handling and braking bares are all on a scale of 1-10, where 10 is the quickest possible.

A car might have a big muscular V8 under the bonnet, however the handling will be on the lower part of the scale unless you make the chassis more rigid and able to cope with such an heavy engine.

Could someone explain the stats to me on the vehicles? I already know like hp, torque and weight. But what does the rarity do? And like top speed 5.2 and acceleration 3.9 and what not. I mean i see cars with low acceleration points that have a lot of v8 power under the hood to boot compared to lets say a inline 4.

Those big engines take a longer time to get moving. They'll get burned in a corner, but will destroy on a straight. Another issue is jumping off the line. The rear wheel drive beasts tend to peel out a bit because of their power. The smaller engine cars can jump off more quickly because of their weight and because they are often AWD.

good call sedriss, always look at acceleration first. go for the EVO's with the 9.1 acceleration, they'll smoke pretty much anything off the line. as the guys above said, horsepower isn't everything. choose cars with accel of at least 7.5 and a speed of at least 6.5. the higher those are the better.

is it just me again or are there no chip mods in FM2? can't find any. i want my Hypertech dammit!

good call sedriss, always look at acceleration first. go for the EVO's with the 9.1 acceleration, they'll smoke pretty much anything off the line. as the guys above said, horsepower isn't everything. choose cars with accel of at least 7.5 and a speed of at least 6.5. the higher those are the better.

is it just me again or are there no chip mods in FM2? can't find any. i want my Hypertech dammit!

Also, equally important especially on the twistier circuits such as Laguna Seca is handling and braking.

The best dosage is normally to modify your car 50% engine and 50% handling.

There's no chip modification, wasn't featured in the first one either.

well my complaint is that you got a 69 Camaro Z28 with a small block vs a 69 Charger with a 440 in it. The Charger weighs 22 pounds more, has about 100hp more and about 190 foot pounds of torque compared the Camaro and they give the Charger a 3.9 in speed compared to the Camaros 4.3? Even a 68 Shelby weighs more by their standards and has equal power than the Charger and it has a speed rating of 4.9? To me i think thats a lil off :blink:

well my complaint is that you got a 69 Camaro Z28 with a small block vs a 69 Charger with a 440 in it. The Charger weighs 22 pounds more, has about 100hp more and about 190 foot pounds of torque compared the Camaro and they give the Charger a 3.9 in speed compared to the Camaros 4.3? Even a 68 Shelby weighs more by their standards and has equal power than the Charger and it has a speed rating of 4.9? To me i think thats a lil off :blink:

Well, you're comparing the top speed there... The '69 Charger is well known for it's high top speed of 200 mph.

Meanwhile, the '69 Camaro only managed 120mph.

The acceleration figures seems accurate aswell, as the Camaro does feature 250 Newtonmeters more torque.

Those big engines take a longer time to get moving. They'll get burned in a corner, but will destroy on a straight. Another issue is jumping off the line. The rear wheel drive beasts tend to peel out a bit because of their power. The smaller engine cars can jump off more quickly because of their weight and because they are often AWD.

RWD cars should be pretty good off the line, due to weight transfer giving the rear wheels more grip. FWD cars, especially powerful ones tend to lift the front wheels under hard acceleration, reducing grip.

well my complaint is that you got a 69 Camaro Z28 with a small block vs a 69 Charger with a 440 in it. The Charger weighs 22 pounds more, has about 100hp more and about 190 foot pounds of torque compared the Camaro and they give the Charger a 3.9 in speed compared to the Camaros 4.3? Even a 68 Shelby weighs more by their standards and has equal power than the Charger and it has a speed rating of 4.9? To me i think thats a lil off :blink:

All to do with gearing. You can have a million bhp, but, if the vehicles only geared to do 100mph, that's all it will ever do. Get all the upgrades for the Charger and it can lap the Nissan Oval at 400kph, along with the GT40s and Speed 12's....

As for the Exige, I'm not sure what's so special about it. I just built a Class A Exige and the numbers aren't over whelming. 0 - 60mph in 3.7 and 0 - 100mph in 7.7. That's about average, but it only has a top speed of ~150.

i really dont know whats special about them. i've bought about 8 of 'em half price and sold 'em online for just 10,000CR cheaper than list price. :p

Speaking of that... people pit maneuver and everything. I got hit by all 7 other cars in a race once, and hard. Was even pushed a good 600 feet sideways by two cars, and then thrown deep into the dirt. I don't know why people have to be so aggressive in this game... all it does is a) **** me off b) make me lag out from all the action.

That's why I only play offline. Atleast on those races I am the only one doing the pit maneuver.

This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Posts

    • US citizens are paying to their government, who could use that to fund healthcare and tuition and relieve the costs of these for citizens instead of making tax breaks that overwhelmingly favor the rich. I'm not saying that tariffs are the correct solution, but what else would they be used for? What else could Trump have in mind for wanting them, if he hasn't figured out that labor costs are higher in the US?
    • I’m in need of a new chair and it sounds like the backrest cannot be locked? I also sat on a Herman miller and was devastated that it couldn’t be locked also, what is going on with chairs. I want to be able to lock the backrest into any position but not even the Herman’s do that
    • Sihoo Doro C300 Pro V2 Ergonomic Office Chair review: The Ikea of chairs by Steven Parker I've reviewed a few gaming chairs over the past three years or so and generally found them to score well in our reviews. SIHOO reached out asking if I was interested in taking a look at their flagship chair, the Doro C300 Pro V2. I never got the chance to check out its predecessor, but the V2 is described as an "Adaptive Ergonomic Chair." It became available to buy in April of this year. Let's get things rolling with a closer look at the specifications and features. Specifications Doro C300 Pro V2 Model Ergonomic Materials Mesh Back and Seat; Soft PU Coated Armrests Height adjustability 45.5 - 53 cm / 17.5" - 20.9" Seat (w+d) 52 x 43 - 47 cm / 20.5" x 16.9" - 18.5" (adjustable) Backrest 52 – 60 cm / 20.5" - 23.6" (adjustable) Lumbar support Mesh built-in (adjustable) Armrest adjustability 8D Bionic Armrests Rocking angle 105°, 120°, 135° (fixed) Neck support Mesh built-in (adjustable) Net weight 27.3 kg / 59.64 lbs Weight support 150 kg / 330 lbs Colors Black, White Warranty 5 years (upon registering) Price $499.99, $539.99 Introduction At first glance, it looks like a chair that in another life wants to be a Herman Miller; It certainly looks like my Aeron Remastered, but the Doro C300 Pro V2 has quite a few more features and costs quite a bit less. SIHOO says that it is made up of a "DynaCore" system that tracks your movement and synchronizes the headrest, backrest, lumbar support, and armrests as you shift, twist, or recline. They also say that the "SyncroFlex Backrest" molds to your spine, which kind of describes how the mesh fabric works in most ergonomic chairs, but anyway. Below are the meat and potatoes measurements for the chair. Here is the same tech sheet, but in inches. Durability I would be remiss to not talk about the various durability testing this chair underwent before coming to market, as this is claimed on the product page. First of all, the chair is BIFMA-, SGS-, and TÜV-certified. As for durability, the tests undergone were: 100,000 Castor cycles tested 120,000 Armrest cycles tested 120,000 Recline cycles tested 120,000 Gas lift cycles tested 60,000 Armrest durability cycles tested 120,000 Rotation cycles tested Nothing about weights testing, though. Now that's all disclosed, now onto my own personal findings. Assembly The Doro C300 Pro V2 came in two large boxes (1) (2), and everything was packed very well, protecting the different parts of the chair. In the box, there is a folded sheet that explains the 12 steps to assemble it; they are: Remove the bottom cover on the aluminum base; Insert the five legs into the aluminum base and use ten screws to fasten them; Insert the castors into the legs; Replace the bottom cover on the bottom of the aluminum base; Place the Class 4 Hydraulics gas cylinder into the aluminum base; Screw the bottom part of the arm rests, taking care of the orientation using two screws on each side; Use three torx screws to fasten the footrest to the bottom of the seat; Fasten the backrest to the seat using four torx bolts; Fasten the armrests to the backrest using four Torx bolts (two on each side), taking care to note the orientation; Place the chair onto the Class 4 Hydraulics gas cylinder; Insert the headrest into the top of the backrest; Use two torx screws to fasten the headrest to the backrest. There's also an online guide you can refer to. Carefully unpacking the two boxes took around 15 minutes because almost everything is wrapped in plastic and protective foam; the chair assembly itself took around an hour. I say in the above assembly steps to take note of the orientation, because it's not obvious which way around the bottom portion of the armrests go, and although there is an L and R on the bottom of the armrests, it also wasn't clear from the instructions which was actually left or right, facing the chair, or in the seated down orientation? Anyway, I ended up putting the bottom portions on the wrong sides, and after securing one of the armrests, I discovered that although it was on the correct side, the armrest base could rotate a full 360°, but not when bolted to the chair, so I had to remove it, rotate it, and then bolt it back on. Truly an Ikea experience! Also, to complicate things further, although all the parts are labeled from A to X (yes, that's 24 parts) unhelpfully, these letters do not appear on the parts themselves or the package with the bolts, screws, and washers. There's also a pair of protective gloves in the box, but I think they were made for much smaller hands than I have. Even my friend, who is 5.1, had difficulty putting them on. Once assembled, I needed to sit down. Anyway, as I said, it looks quite similar to my Herman Miller. And here is the back of it. If you look at the product page and on Amazon, it seems like a lot of thought has gone into the chair itself and what it's capable of, but there is no mention at all about the castors, and this is an area where I think the chair trips up quite quickly. I found it difficult to move the chair in any direction. I asked a friend who came to visit me earlier this week to test my findings, and she said that the wheels were "no good," so it definitely isn't just me. I am 6'2 myself and a big guy, I work from home and gained a few pounds from mostly staying in and the hell away from other people. However, the Doro C300 Pro V2 is rated for up to 150kg (330lbs), which in my case is used well within its max rating. Ergonomics The number of adjustments you can make, right up to setting it in nap mode — which I haven't fully tested yet — is what you'd expect from a premium chair. Yes, you can go up and down (max 7.5 cm adjustment), rock back and forth (with tilt adjustment), and lock the chair between three stages of 105°, 120°, 135°, which is not quite as flat as the AndaSeat I tested at 160°. Some thought has also gone into the "8D" armrests, too, which are cushioned but quite firm; you'll only know it if you press hard into the PU-covered tops, which give about half a centimeter, but it's enough to ensure your skin won't get awkwardly stuck to it in warmer (or sweatier) conditions. It almost feels like plastic and is very easy to keep clean. However, the armrest positions move far too easily, and I am not sure what that "elbow" function is. Maybe it is good for a short person with short arms, anyway, I never used it and kept it flat at all times. There are eight levels of adjustment for the armrests, they are: backwards, forwards, swing left/right, height up and down, tilt, and 360° rotation, which can be handy for desk clearance. As I said, the armrest pads shift far too easily, which could give off an ergonomic vibe, but who wants the armrest sliding when you are shifting weight? The height adjustability does lock into place when lifting and adjusting. Comfort This is ultimately what it boils down to at the end of the day, right? Quite a lot of reviews praise the comfort of this chair, and I don't disagree that the mesh seating is quite comfortable. I am used to the material from my daily Herman Miller. However, the backrest cannot be locked into place, and this is actually a feature; as you shift or recline yourself on the chair, the backrest moves with your body. It took some getting used to. The lumbar gives ample support, but I would have preferred an adjustable one built into the seat base, as this causes the backrest to move up and down at will. Again, as with my previous chair review, this chair is also rated for tall people, but nowhere in the product documentation does it say how tall. Being 6'2 myself, I'm happy to say that the backrest is tall and wide enough, and thought has been given to being able to adjust the neck rest, but as others have mentioned in their reviews, people as tall as 6.2ft is about the limit for the neckrest. Conclusion What I didn't like The footrest is rated for 15kg (33 lbs), which to me seems a bit light, and after looking online, it seems like a chair footrest for adults must be at least twice that rating. In all honesty, they are just hollow metal tubes, so it is not recommended to let a kid sit on them. I also feel like it doesn't really go out far enough for my height, so that kind of puts the dampener on me being able to use it regularly. I'll just have to continue to use my subwoofer as a footrest! I do not like the armrests being able to shift around as easily as they can, and they are a little too forward-positioned in the chair to comfortably sit close to my desk, because even in the lowest height position, they don't allow me to go under the desk like is possible with my Herman Miller. I also feel like this chair could have been delivered partially constructed, especially the armrests on the seat, and why the aluminum base wasn't already pre-constructed (without the castors) is baffling, considering it would have fit in one of the two boxes that way. The instructions also need to be clearer. On the pamphlet, there's an A to X listing (which is also used in the steps), but none of the physical parts use this lettering system! What I did like I'll be honest, I haven't used it for very long, just one week, and seating comfort is subjective after all! Any spills wiped straight off it, the stitching, and the lines look great, not a fray to be seen or stitch out of place. It looks kind of cool, too. My favorite feature of these seats is the nap mode. While you're not lying completely flat, it leans far back enough to make you easily doze off after a heavy gaming or working session. Overall, this chair offers plenty of comfort features. The MSRP does vary quite a bit depending on the region, at £549.99 in the UK, and €580 in Europe, and $599 before tax in the U.S. However, shipping is free, which is a bonus for such a heavy item. Is it worth it, though? At three years' warranty, I think it's a decent deal. Another firm out of Germany sent me a free replacement hydraulic gas spring for a chair that failed after almost four years, so it was well outside its two-year warranty. My advice is to always try, as you might have the same luck I did. If I could fault it at all, it would be the constant shifting of the armrests and backrest. Where to buy Although the footrest variant normally costs $539.99, it has been discounted to $469.99 on the official website in Black or White. In fact, the non-footrest variant is only $40 cheaper. On Amazon, it currently costs more at $499.99 links below. Sihoo Doro C300 Pro V2 for $469.99 (official website) Sihoo Doro C300 Pro V2 for $499.99 at Amazon US SIHOO provided a free sample without any review or pre-approval. Good to know This Amazon link is U.S. specific, and not available in other regions unless specified. We only use first-party seller links (at the time of article publishing); ensure that you purchase from a first-party seller link only. Check out Today's Deals on Amazon | or our recent tech deals. Become a Prime member (for Students or SNAP) via Neowin Get Prime Access - Prime for half price (for qualifying Medicaid, EBT, SNAP) Subscribe to Prime Video, Audible Plus, Music Unlimited or Kindle Unlimited via Neowin As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
    • Making US citizens pay is a prominent tool? Joke of the week…
  • Recent Achievements

    • Conversation Starter
      jessse3334 earned a badge
      Conversation Starter
    • Reacting Well
      JuvenileDelinquent earned a badge
      Reacting Well
    • One Month Later
      Excellence2025 earned a badge
      One Month Later
    • Week One Done
      Excellence2025 earned a badge
      Week One Done
    • Week One Done
      flexorcist earned a badge
      Week One Done
  • Popular Contributors

    1. 1
      +primortal
      506
    2. 2
      +Edouard
      206
    3. 3
      PsYcHoKiLLa
      151
    4. 4
      Steven P.
      73
    5. 5
      macoman
      62
  • Tell a friend

    Love Neowin? Tell a friend!