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I spend about 10 minutes on a pic in lightroom. I try to batch process as much as possible. Some I put then in PS for final touchups or to add a border. I may start getting into dodging and burning too so that will add some time.

I really only process 10% of my pics. There is no need for me to do all of them. I try to only do the best and just have the rest sit.

I agree with moonman, PP is part of digital photography.

I'm new to photography but I told myself I wouldn't ever post-edit because I wouldn't take it seriously enough. Right. Now I've figured out post-editing will be a big part of my hobby for different reasons. First, because I'm starting new, a lot of my shots are crap. Overexposed, underexposed, point of reference, etc. I bought Photoshop Elements and a guide book and have found out many in-depth ways to fix these errors. Also, I have yet to buy filters for my camera and Elements lets me adjust the picture somewhat as if there were a filter used originally. Soon I plan on buying these things but that will be over time. And lastly, HDR is really appealing to me and whenever I spend some time taking pictures I will take a few specifically for HDR use. The results can be absolutely breathtaking but I am no where near good with it yet.

In short, for the beginner, photo editing software is a God-send! LOL. I use iPhoto to keep a library of my pictures and then Elements to edit.

When you are out in the field, things like over-/underexposure (unless shooting RAW), white ballance (unless shooting RAW), ISO and composition should be corrected right on the spot. (for example... Too bright? Underexpose it or set the shutter speed a bit lower. Shoot again. Any good? No. Repeat the steps.) Colours, dust/speckles removal, cropping is mostly post processing. Surely you try to get the colours and the composition as good as possible right on the spot. But in many cases it's hard to achieve the desired effect unless you do some post processing.

As far as the filters goes. Get an relatively cheap UV filter to protect the glass on your lenses from scratches and whatnot. Try to keep the filter most of the time on the lens. It's easier to replace a $20 filter than a $500 lens. Aside from that, invest in a good circular polarize filter. Polarize filter is one of the view filters that you won't be able to reproduce in Photoshop or any other image editing program. I suggest B+W MRC filters for their superb quality (read here for more info). There are two models, Slim and F-Pro. Slim is very thin and can't host another filter, F-Pro can. Slim is usually good for wide lenses. All in all, search and read a lot before buying any filters.

As for the software, I suggest skipping Elements and going straight for Lightroom. Whether you are an amateur or pro, LR is a great way to edit and keep track of your photos.

I edit each photo i take, well the ones i feel have potential, as their own photo and edit them all seperately usually ranging between 10-15 mins playing around in aperture first (WB/contrast) then move to PS to more detailed edits.

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Some more wedding photos. The first two are by my wife. She is fairly new to the game but I think she has potential no?

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Not really technically great or anything but I just like the sequence.

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View the rest here: http://flickr.com/photos/macpham/sets/72157607216332791/ and please leave comments! :)

zomg, you're shelling out cash to ROGERS?

shame shame moon man.

thats good to know any more people out there?

also how much editing do you do on a picture etc in either time or adjustments

I think pretty much everybody does, at least at some level.

great shots.

I'm fairly new to this photography lark... Anyway, got a new lens today (Nikkor AF 35mm f/2D) for my D50 so just been messing about with it really.

My Converse from a recent visit to New York (i didn't have my D50 with me there so didn't get any nice shots of the place unfortunately).

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thanks spacey, i need all the help i can get. i am truly a beginner...

in terms of the first one, is it just the dark nature of the photo that makes it underexposed, or the black areas???

edit: just looking at your flickr photostream and see you went to universal studios in orlando, and just wanted to say that i went on the simpsons ride at universal in LA and it was one of the best virtual rides ever!!

linky

linky

Edited by houlty
thanks spacey, i need all the help i can get. i am truly a beginner...

in terms of the first one, is it just the dark nature of the photo that makes it underexposed, or the black areas???

No, it's the whole image. If you have any kind of photo editing software, and hit "auto exposure" or "auto levels" it would automatically brighten the whole image.

A little bit longer exposure/wider aperture would have fixed this in camera. Or higher ISO, too.

Last week I got a chance to shoot a wedding with someone established; it was a load of fun and I'm fairly happy with my shots. (not bad for first time?) Any comments/critiques are sincerely appreciated!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/peterish/sets...57607328632372/

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http://www.flickr.com/photos/peterish/sets...57607328632372/

^ lol

It's been forever since I posted. Here's a 4 shots with my D90. Both were using the nikon 80-200mm f2.8

2867485858_bd9bdf7e18.jpg

http://flickr.com/photos/stephenkirsh/2867485858/

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http://flickr.com/photos/stephenkirsh/2867485730/

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http://flickr.com/photos/stephenkirsh/2867501978/

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http://flickr.com/photos/stephenkirsh/2867502054/

This one's taken at ISO 3200 on a D200 w/ the same lens.

2866677227_8d83d9f31b.jpg

Edited by crazzy88ss
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    • Are you going to do performance benchmarks comparing all states? I'd be interested in seeing that in the next "part".
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However, this can be changed with a Registry trick to expand the options under a secret "Processor performance boost mode" dropdown. This essentially enables the HWP or hardware P-States available on a device, and these are not controlled just by the OS itself as the underlying hardware gets involved too. In total there are five Processor Performance Boost Mode profiles that control how Windows requests and allows CPU turbo/boost behavior under the different power policies. They are: Disabled: In this mode, processor boosting is effectively turned off. The CPU will avoid entering turbo or boost frequencies and instead operate closer to its base frequency ceiling. This can significantly reduce power consumption and heat output, but at the cost of reduced burst performance and responsiveness in short workloads. Enabled: This is the standard behavior where boost functionality is allowed under normal conditions. The processor can opportunistically increase frequency when workload demands it, balancing performance gains with power and thermal constraints as managed by the system. Aggressive: Aggressive mode favors performance more heavily, allowing the CPU to enter higher boost states more readily and sustain them longer. This should in theory improve responsiveness under bursty or heavy workloads but increases power draw and thermal output compared to the default enabled behavior. Efficient Enabled: This mode still allows boosting, but with a stronger bias toward energy efficiency. The system attempts to use boost more selectively, avoiding unnecessary frequency spikes when the performance gain is marginal. Efficient Aggressive: This is a hybrid approach where boost is still performance-responsive, but the system continuously weighs efficiency more heavily than in Aggressive mode. It aims to deliver noticeable performance improvements while reducing wasted power in less demanding scenarios. Here's how to enable the Processor performance boost mode: Open Registry Editor: Press Win+R, type regedit, and click OK. Go to: HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power\PowerSettings\54533251-82be-4824-96c1-47b60b740d00\be337238-0d82-4146-a960-4f3749d470c7 (where HKLM stands for HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE_) Modify the value of Attributes from 1 to 2 (you can find modify option by right-clicking) After that, exit Registry, you should now be able to see the new "Processor performance boost mode" dropdown menu: As you can see there are now five new P-States or CPPC states or power profile available that help define the boost mode processor setting on your PC. Wrapping it up here's a quick run-down of the settings as defined by Microsoft itself. Setting Description Disabled The corresponding P-state-based behaviour is disabled. Collaborative Processor Performance Control (CPPC) behaviour is disabled. Enabled The corresponding P-state-based behaviour is enabled. 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