The Official NDS Homebrew Thread


Recommended Posts

There is no difference between the R4DS and the M3 Simply. It's the exact same hardware, short of a few bridged jumpers (pun intended). The newer revisions don't have the jumper to switch between R4 and M3, but it's still the same hardware. R4 is the manufacturer of both devices and they release firmware updates first, followed by M3 a day or two later.

As far as micro sd cards goes, Kingston/Toshiba SD-C01G Japan cards are the best.

I have to agree. Kingston MicroSD cards from Japan (I haven't tried Toshiba) are the best I've ever used.

I was having constant issues in Castlevania: Portrait of Ruin (freezing), and also Tony Hawk's Downhill Jam (graphic flickering/issues) with an 80X ATP MicroSD card, and a Kingsmax MicroSD (which has won bloody awards).

But once I started using that Kingston card those problems are gone. Even the intro video of Dawn of Sorrow runs perfectly. It's definitely the best card for the DS Lite.

(I'm using the M3 DS Simply btw).

Funny, I been thinking about getting a DS Lite and grabbing a flash cart online.

So what would be the best cart out atm, regardless of price?

Any opinions on the G6 Lite ?

Well if you don't need GBA support, the best is the R4 or M3 DS Simply (both the same hardware). I can't state my opinion on the G6 Lite since I've never used it, but the M3 DS Simply is definitely a great cart solution.

Also the M3 DS Simply acts as a Passcard, so if you decide in the future to purchase a cart for the GBA slot you can use the M3 to boot it.

If you're worried about cost.. The G6 Lite + a Passcard will run you about $100 USD. The M3 DS Simply is around $45 (that's without a MicroSD card however), but if you purchase a cheap MicroSD card it will cost you far less then the G6. Plus the G6 is 4Gigabit (which is only 512mb), so a 1GB MicroSD card will offer more space.

Thanks for the quick reply.

But yea, I would like to be able to retain support for both nds, and gba software.

So for this I would have to go with an M3 + Passcard, correct? (ohh and purchase a seperate MicroSD card for better space)

Thanks for the quick reply.

But yea, I would like to be able to retain support for both nds, and gba software.

So for this I would have to go with an M3 + Passcard, correct? (ohh and purchase a seperate MicroSD card for better space)

The M3 is an all-in-one device. No passcard necessary. But I think you actually meant the G6 Lite (since that is the solution which gives you GBA support) + a passcard. You need both for the G6 solution.

Is it possible to get both an R4 DS, and an M3 Lite and have them work together ? Compatibility issue ?

Also, wouldn't this mean an ish load of more capacity ? 2Gig SD in each = 4Gig ?

Reason I ask is because im leaning more toward the R4 but would like to be able to still play my gba roms.

Is it possible to get both an R4 DS, and an M3 Lite and have them work together ? Compatibility issue ?

Also, wouldn't this mean an ish load of more capacity ? 2Gig SD in each = 4Gig ?

Reason I ask is because im leaning more toward the R4 but would like to be able to still play my gba roms.

Well the R4 is the same hardware and uses the same O.S. as the M3 DS Simply, and it gives you the option when you boot with it to load a slot-2 device (which means a device such as the G6 lite).

And yes they would work together. The only thing the R4 does with slot-2 is act as a Passcard to boot into the G6 Lite. Once you've booted into your G6 you can use it as you wish.

But you will be paying quite a bit. You have to buy an R4 + MicroSD card, and also the G6 Lite. Granted you would have quite a bit of space. You can get MicroSD cards anywhere from 128mb to 2gb (there's supposed to be 4gb out soon too), and the G6 will give you 512mb.

If I had that setup I'd only stick the GBA roms + Homebrew on the G6 Lite (the Slot-1 carts like the R4 or M3 DS simply don't have very good homebrew support since most homebrew applications haven't been rewritten for them yet), and of course leave the NDS for strictly the R4.

Btw the G6 only has built-in memory. You can't use any memory cards with it. If you want a Slot-2 device (for GBA) that uses MicroSD you should grab the Supercard Lite, it's similar but uses MicroSD instead of built-in memory.

Edited by MadFerIt2006
Is it possible to get both an R4 DS, and an M3 Lite and have them work together ? Compatibility issue ?

Also, wouldn't this mean an ish load of more capacity ? 2Gig SD in each = 4Gig ?

Reason I ask is because im leaning more toward the R4 but would like to be able to still play my gba roms.

I would suggest waiting for more information on the M3 Real. Rumor has it that it will be a slot-1/slot-2 combo solution, with a cart going in both slot-1 and slot-2, allowing you to run GBA from slot-2. This is just a rumor so far though. More info should be available soon.

I would suggest waiting for more information on the M3 Real. Rumor has it that it will be a slot-1/slot-2 combo solution, with a cart going in both slot-1 and slot-2, allowing you to run GBA from slot-2. This is just a rumor so far though. More info should be available soon.

If that's true hopefully it will be backwards compatible with the M3 DS Simply. And hopefully it's cheap.. The slot-2 solutions tend to be very pricey. You would think the all-in-one slot-1 solutions would be more expensive then the old passcard + slot-2 cart solution.. Although the GBA support with slot-2 devices is impressive. I wouldn't mind picking up a cheap gba solution for slot-2 (that doesn't stick out of the system) alongside of my current M3 Simply.

I didn't say it was, I said it reminded me of it when I saw it.

You might want to go ask around at GBA-Dev to see if anyone would be interested in creating a homebrew version, some people might be looking for inspiration or a new project to work on.

I didn't say it was, I said it reminded me of it when I saw it.

You might want to go ask around at GBA-Dev to see if anyone would be interested in creating a homebrew version, some people might be looking for inspiration or a new project to work on.

Thanks, I'll make a post. I doubt anything could happen of it because access to the spin files has been 403'd and getting hold of the music and legally is another issue.

I would suggest waiting for more information on the M3 Real. Rumor has it that it will be a slot-1/slot-2 combo solution, with a cart going in both slot-1 and slot-2, allowing you to run GBA from slot-2. This is just a rumor so far though. More info should be available soon.

I finally ordered my R4 Ds...should be around in the next few days... :jump:

Ok...A question on the R4... Will the R4 act as a passcard even if it doesnt have a micro sd card inserted...???...

I was thinking that if it did, all I would need is either a 2 gig or 4 gig micro sd card that I could swap between the slot 1 and slot 2 device. :unsure:

Anyway, could someone please recommend a cheap slot 2 flash cart...

Thanks in advance...

I finally ordered my R4 Ds...should be around in the next few days... :jump:

Ok...A question on the R4... Will the R4 act as a passcard even if it doesnt have a micro sd card inserted...???...

I was thinking that if it did, all I would need is either a 2 gig or 4 gig micro sd card that I could swap between the slot 1 and slot 2 device. :unsure:

Anyway, could someone please recommend a cheap slot 2 flash cart...

Thanks in advance...

It won't boot without the micro sd card in, but after it loads up you can take the card out and passme, or you could just passme and then take the card out. Or you can flashme the ds. I know most people don't recommend flashme, but I use it along with my R4 for download play and to get rid of the health and safety screen.

As far as a cheap slot 2 goes, I'd say the ez4 would be what you are looking for.

Hi guys,

What are your opinions on a Ninjapass X9TF... before I order one that is.

Junk. Get a R4DS or M3 Simply. Also, superkey isn't a slot 1 solution, it's a passme device for booting a slot 2 cart. I haven't heard anything good about bamboogaming either. Seems a lot of their orders get "lost" in the mail.

Use GBAtemps slot 1 comparison tool to decide which is best.

http://gbatemp.net/index.php?dynamic=39

It has trouble with some games, there is virtually no homebrew support, no DLDI support, no multimedia features, it doesn't automatically create save files, you have to do it yourself, etc.

GBAtemp gave it a 5.5/10 compared to R4DS 9/10.

This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Posts

    • My father still uses a programme written in dbase3. Still manages to work with a little help from dosbox. 
    • Microsoft hides these secret Windows 11 performance boost settings available on every PC by Sayan Sen Windows enthusiasts often look for ways to extract as much performance out of their systems as possible, and it's often the case that they try and do so while trying to minimize the heat and power consumption. This is especially relevant in the case of mobile Windows PCs since laptops and notebooks tend to get hot and management of that heat and power is harder in such a form factor. As such users often turn to techniques like under-volting which can be used to squeeze out the maximum capabilities of a chip while also maintaining lowered power levels. There are official apps from AMD and Intel with the likes of Ryzen Master and XTU (Extreme Tuning Utility). While these are quite handy, most enthusiasts probably prefer to dig into the BIOS and play around with settings there like Curve Optimizer on Ryzen, which lets users set various frequency-voltage scaling values. These are essentially called P-States. If you are not familiar with them, Processor Power Management is done through Advanced Configuration and Power Interface (ACPI) P-states and C-states. While P-states or performance pwoer states handle CPU voltage-frequency scaling, C-states deal with CPU sleep states so that some of the CPU functions, which are not necessary at that moment, can be disabled. The P-states and C-states work together to make the processor run more efficiently. It helps the OS and apps determine which cores can be parked and which should be boosted. Of course not every user is an enthusiast or knows the technicalities and integrities of how things like overclocking or undervolting work. Thankfully for them Windows itself offers something pretty cool, though it is hidden by default on all systems. By default, Windows only has two P-States, "Minimum Processor State" and "Maximum Processor State." However, this can be changed with a Registry trick to expand the options under a secret "Processor performance boost mode" dropdown. This essentially enables the HWP or hardware P-States available on a device, and these are not controlled just by the OS itself as the underlying hardware gets involved too. In total there are five Processor Performance Boost Mode profiles that control how Windows requests and allows CPU turbo/boost behavior under the different power policies. They are: Disabled: In this mode, processor boosting is effectively turned off. The CPU will avoid entering turbo or boost frequencies and instead operate closer to its base frequency ceiling. This can significantly reduce power consumption and heat output, but at the cost of reduced burst performance and responsiveness in short workloads. Enabled: This is the standard behavior where boost functionality is allowed under normal conditions. The processor can opportunistically increase frequency when workload demands it, balancing performance gains with power and thermal constraints as managed by the system. Aggressive: Aggressive mode favors performance more heavily, allowing the CPU to enter higher boost states more readily and sustain them longer. This should in theory improve responsiveness under bursty or heavy workloads but increases power draw and thermal output compared to the default enabled behavior. Efficient Enabled: This mode still allows boosting, but with a stronger bias toward energy efficiency. The system attempts to use boost more selectively, avoiding unnecessary frequency spikes when the performance gain is marginal. Efficient Aggressive: This is a hybrid approach where boost is still performance-responsive, but the system continuously weighs efficiency more heavily than in Aggressive mode. It aims to deliver noticeable performance improvements while reducing wasted power in less demanding scenarios. Here's how to enable the Processor performance boost mode: Open Registry Editor: Press Win+R, type regedit, and click OK. Go to: HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power\PowerSettings\54533251-82be-4824-96c1-47b60b740d00\be337238-0d82-4146-a960-4f3749d470c7 (where HKLM stands for HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE_) Modify the value of Attributes from 1 to 2 (you can find modify option by right-clicking) After that, exit Registry, you should now be able to see the new "Processor performance boost mode" dropdown menu: As you can see there are now five new P-States or CPPC states or power profile available that help define the boost mode processor setting on your PC. Wrapping it up here's a quick run-down of the settings as defined by Microsoft itself. Setting Description Disabled The corresponding P-state-based behaviour is disabled. Collaborative Processor Performance Control (CPPC) behaviour is disabled. Enabled The corresponding P-state-based behaviour is enabled. CPPC behaviour is Efficient Enabled. Aggressive The corresponding P-state-based behaviour is enabled. CPPC behaviour is Aggressive. Efficient Enabled The corresponding P-state-based behaviour is Efficient. CPPC behaviour is Efficient Enabled. Efficient Aggressive The corresponding P-state-based behaviour is Efficient. CPPC behaviour is Aggressive. Aggressive At Guaranteed Windows calculates the desired extra performance above the guaranteed performance level, and asks the processor to deliver that specific performance level. Efficient Aggressive At Guaranteed Windows always asks the processor to deliver the highest possible performance above the guaranteed performance level. In the next part we shall be comparing these settings to explore how much of a benefit or regression they can provide in terms of performance and power efficiency. If you decide to change the values on your system and are experiencing problems like crashes or an overheating PC, make sure to revert the steps back to the original state.
    • I think he means you haven't reviewed previous UFC games. Of course it doesn't matter... Every time you just report on something that involves the President even if just simply what happened you guys usually get accused of being anti-Trump. We live in fun times.
    • So how did you solve the problem? Disabling Secure Boot isn’t a solution.
  • Recent Achievements

    • One Month Later
      Leroy Jethro Gibbs earned a badge
      One Month Later
    • Conversation Starter
      flexorcist earned a badge
      Conversation Starter
    • One Month Later
      AndreaB earned a badge
      One Month Later
    • One Month Later
      agatameier earned a badge
      One Month Later
    • Week One Done
      agatameier earned a badge
      Week One Done
  • Popular Contributors

    1. 1
      +primortal
      518
    2. 2
      +Edouard
      198
    3. 3
      PsYcHoKiLLa
      147
    4. 4
      ATLien_0
      93
    5. 5
      Steven P.
      77
  • Tell a friend

    Love Neowin? Tell a friend!